tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19190621855008328632024-03-12T21:22:03.072-07:00Alex Waterhouse ClimbingAlexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-3761030472255412452014-10-17T06:39:00.002-07:002014-10-17T06:39:27.916-07:00The ups and the downs <div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve had a tough one in
the last few months. After finishing last year on a high with a 5<sup>th</sup>
place in the Norway EYC, I was psyched for this year. I was in the first year
of A in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Norway</st1:country-region></st1:place>,
and had a great final. Granted the field was small, but I beat people who had
previously been beating me, and I came away psyched. Even the one bouldering
European I competed in, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Laval</st1:place></st1:city>,
was good, where I came 14<sup>th</sup>. At the time I was frustrated, and went
away to train bouldering for the winter, so came into this year stronger and
more ready to compete in the higher level. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first chance to test
this new strength was the second round of the Junior BBCs, but unfortunately, I
was taking a <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">US</st1:place></st1:country-region>
university entrance exam on that day so had to miss it, so the first national
comp for me was the Senior BBCs. I went in with absolutely no expectations,
almost hoping to miss out on semis so I could go on the grit the next day, but
I had one of my best sessions of my life, where I topped 4 of the 5 qualifying
problems and made my first senior semi-final in 10<sup>th</sup> place. This was
a great boost for me, and had the problems been more to my style the next day I
could realistically have made a final. I came away psyched, but concerned about
some lack of strength still, so upped the number of training sessions with my
coach, Mikey Cleverdon, hoping it would give me more focus in my sessions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Doing my best Jan impression in the senior BLCCs</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In July, I went to the
first bouldering EYC of the year in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">France</st1:place></st1:country-region> full of confidence, honestly
believing I could make a final if I climbed well and the problems suited me
somewhat. This competition marked the beginning of the worst week of
competition in my whole 5 years of climbing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">France</span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> was a competition of power and squeezing, and it
seemed to pick out my weaknesses on the first 2 moves of every problem. I
topped the 2 sympathy problems and picked up a popular bonus, but I was
absolutely shut down. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I came 39<sup>th</sup> (if
I remember right, I don’t really want to check), 4<sup>th</sup> from last. I
wasn’t entirely sure how to react. I’d never really finished in the lower half
of a European, never mind in the bottom 5, so this wasn’t a failure I’d had to
deal with. This wasn’t just missing a final, or being beaten by a rival, it was
total, complete and utter failure and embarrassment in front of the best
climbers in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place> as well as my friends in
the team. I went for a little walk after that one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was ok though, I was to
return to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:city>
to compete in the final round of the JBBCs that weekend. I had a realistic
chance of making the overall podium if I won, despite missing a round. The
blinkers were on, and I felt good in the warm up. Then, I’m not entirely sure
what happened, but I didn’t top 3 of the harder problems, and was out of the
final. There are many excuses I could use: the BMC rules mean just 3 attempts
at a problem, one of them had a crux move with my weakest hold type or I was
just having a bad day – but the fact is even on a bad day I should be making
national finals, and I hadn’t missed out one for 4 years. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was devastated. I said
about 3 words to anyone for days, barely left my room and the one time I
attempted to train I did about 4 problems before I couldn’t be bothered to try
and left. I lost motivation for 2 weeks, climbed once with Jim in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:city>, getting burnt off
on every problem and really didn’t want to go to the wall. I had a session with Mikey, he knew I wasn’t
psyched so we just had some fun, tried some problems and campussed some stuff
with the rest of the guys there. I was being burnt off, but I was having fun on
the wall for the first time in weeks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then it was off to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Lägenfeld</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Austria</st1:country-region></st1:place>
for the second bouldering event of the year. This was far, far better, and I
actually came away with a result I was happy with, inside of the top 20 and
with multiple flashes. It was progress! With only a few weeks to go until the
worlds it was back to training hard on a rope, but I was given the opportunity
to attend the European Bouldering Championships in Arco, which I went for,
taking the risk that it could detract from my worlds training. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Getting wet at the UK's first DWS competition at The Quay</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I went in with minimal
expectations, knowing it couldn’t get much worse than the first, so jumped
straight onto the slabs! I knew I was good at them, and as 3 problems (2 slabs
and a jump start) crossed over each other the queue was 3 times longer for each
climb, but as I was the only one in the queue for each of the slabs I was
getting attempts every 3 people, so I could crack them quickly and move on. I
ended up doing one slab second go, and another third, which turned out to be
the one only one other climber topped! I was in good shape, so moved across to
the corner climb, which I cracked on my third go after some funky foot above
head beta to get around my lack of shoulder strength. I moved over to the
“easy” problem next, but this was part of the crossover so the queue was huge,
but I flashed it after a wait and knew I was in good shape. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Bearing down on slabs, courtesy of <span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; line-height: 18px;">thecircuitclimbingmedia</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The round was one of the
hardest I had competed in, with few getting more than 2 tops, and I had 4! I
was ready to retire and save my strength, without even trying 3 of the problems,
but decided to give one of the steep ones a go. I was called off twice for
touching my foot on the wall before the starting foot, but after a shout to the
team management the jury president was called and the attempts were reimbursed.
I ended up pulling my way through using a high heel, screaming my way to the
undercut top. I knew I had secured my first bouldering final, and I was
ecstatic! I didn’t even try the last 2 problems, and ended up qualifying for
the final in 2<sup>nd</sup>, my best result in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place>,
even on an individual route! Although I ended up 6<sup>th</sup> in a tough
final, I was happy to make it, and the result doesn’t show how close I was on
some of the problems!#<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The team: <span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">thecircuitclimbingmedia</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">When I returned home from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Italy</st1:country-region> it was 3 days of school and hard training
before heading off on the mammoth journey to <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">New Caledonia</st1:place></st1:state> for the World Youth Leach
Championships. This was the climax of the year, and a special event for me as I
had the hopes of the hundred people who pledged to get me there, to whom I am
extremely grateful. The flights themselves took 21 hours, but with transfers in
<st1:country-region w:st="on">Finland</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Japan</st1:place></st1:country-region>, as well
as getting to and from the airport it was more like 34! I’ve never been
travelling for that long before, but felt some lucky sleeping times and good
films made it a rather pleasant experience. We arrived late, but from what we
saw of the island on our way to the apartments it was going to be a good week! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We had travelled out early
to account for jet-lag and other problems, and when we arrived in Noumea to find
our bags had not made it onto our rushed connection in Helsinki we were glad of
the buffer! All we had to do was survive a couple of days with just an airline
provided t-shirt and we’d be fine! As a result, the first couple of days were
mainly spent chilling out and relaxing on the beach, but when they arrived we
could access the full potential of the island! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first thing we did was
get the Beastmaker, hung it off a tree and had a training session, it’d been so
long since we’d climbed and it felt good! We then used the pool, throwing coins
in and racing to collect as many as possible. Over the next few days, we
visited the wall, had a boulder session and (my highlight of the whole trip)
went snorkelling. Snorkelling in an ocean I had never swam in a half of the
world I had never stepped foot in was absolutely incredible, and seeing masses
of multicoloured coral, lots of unbelievable fish and I even got the
opportunity to swim with a wild sea turtle which I spotted, which defined the
whole trip for me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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View from the apartment</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alas, the fun was over and
the bigger fun was just beginning! The opening ceremony was interesting, but
did drag on a bit in the way these things do. I also attended my first
technical meeting, something I had been badgering to do for the last 3 years.
It was everything I dreamed it would be, but there wasn’t enough argument about
the rules which was rather a disappointment…… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Opening ceremony</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This year’s competition
was different to all the others previously in that both the qualifiers were on
the same day. This didn’t suit me perfectly, but I had to push through
regardless. The first route was wonderfully set up high, but was a bit easy
before the roof. In the roof though, there was a 360 spin, a bicycle and a huge
drop knee! I made it through it all, only to pump out on the headwall. It was good
enough, top 26 and in a comfortable position for semis. The next route was late
in the evening, so we headed back to the hotel to relax and refuel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next route looked my
style, technical with lots of crimps and rockovers. I was around 5<sup>th</sup>
last to climb, so had to wait until 10pm until my turn, which was new! There
seemed to be a hard “drive-by” move low down, but when I was there it felt
fine. I relaxed on the hold, adjusted my foot and went for the long rockover
out left. Normally, rockovers are my thing, but this time wasn’t to be. My foot
ripped off of the hold and I was off, only a few clips up. I was devastated;
convinced I wouldn’t make the semi-final, and went for a little wander…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Somehow, when the results
finally came out, I was sitting in 24<sup>th </sup>(just into the semis, a
minor miracle). I was psyched out of my mind to make it, and felt great warming
up in isolation the next evening. The good thing of being out early is that you
know almost exactly when you’ll be climbing, but if you’re too early you have
to go for observation and then sit straight in the chair, which can cool you
down too much, but I was lucky enough to be one off the chair so rushed to
re-warm with the image of the route in my mind. It began up a vertical wall,
until about two thirds height where it steepened out into the horizontal roof,
barrelling to the top. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I waited for my turn in
the chair, waiting for the two climbers who had qualified below me. Tying in, I
walked out to below the wall and re-read. I had read the move into the roof,
which looked huge, as an all points off dyno, so was particularly worried about
that. The first move was also a bit sketchy, a long move off a horrendous foot.
I opted to ignore the foot altogether and give myself no illusions by smearing
on the panel, and it ended up being rather easy. The start panel was pretty
steady, and I climbed well to the roof. The dyno was in fact not very far at
all, and I reached it with extreme ease, resting on the move. I was in the
roof, and using a funky combo of heels and toes made it too a big move from a
jug, which I dropped. I made 19<sup>th</sup> place at the worlds, not bad and
an improvement on last year, but definitely could have gone better in the end!
Next year in Arco is going to be big!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2AdkUWkIRBUkfGNTyo1nYuqn-OLlCsM_pRlSceKUx53DMOU-8pK_Brq_-vupk-SIxNLl3dAG8W7cpP8OL3uJ55-2Q-NXjXv_sVGjdWhQ76_f1RxJ7xTWdZNr3I9FyWPuhUSQalijfXU/s1600/15130105240_d856738d21_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2AdkUWkIRBUkfGNTyo1nYuqn-OLlCsM_pRlSceKUx53DMOU-8pK_Brq_-vupk-SIxNLl3dAG8W7cpP8OL3uJ55-2Q-NXjXv_sVGjdWhQ76_f1RxJ7xTWdZNr3I9FyWPuhUSQalijfXU/s1600/15130105240_d856738d21_c.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Off in the semis, courtesy of Nicolas Huet</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">More recently (and a lot
closer to home!!) was the British Lead Climbing Champs. I took part in both the
junior and senior events, as they both were in <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>
over the same weekend. In the juniors, the final route was going well until my
feet cut on the lip of the giant AWCC roof while resting, and just throwing
them back on pumped me out. I ended up in 4<sup>th</sup>, not a bad result but
definitely potential for better…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">On Sunday was the senior
competition, and I went in with the goal of making the final. In the qualifiers
I had the vertical route as my first, and ended up being the first climber to
top, which was nice. With a reasonable second route, on which I got incredibly
pumped, I made it into the final in 3<sup>rd</sup> place! This was my first
British senior final, so I was happy with my result already, but came away with
an 6<sup>th</sup> place on one of the harder final routes I have climbed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfINvGXur93I9l3QaW0q_R66k-176uPffHa1TATMsGvtiGVGA3VGbrml4K_h_vNQ92qgucegt6OZAtUDNUB34wukxwHlPrq3UqwOJU3kwkyL4mg5qaUB506PKNXF2xFd7j7eX52phejM/s1600/1620463_723266924411829_1795514789774460968_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfINvGXur93I9l3QaW0q_R66k-176uPffHa1TATMsGvtiGVGA3VGbrml4K_h_vNQ92qgucegt6OZAtUDNUB34wukxwHlPrq3UqwOJU3kwkyL4mg5qaUB506PKNXF2xFd7j7eX52phejM/s1600/1620463_723266924411829_1795514789774460968_n.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
After the amazing dyno in the senior BLCC final</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Overall, it’s been a year
of ups and downs, but the trend has been rising of late! Hopefully this is a
good sign for the winter season of training in preparation for the European
circuit starting again next spring. I’m currently on a rest period after the
year’s training, but am looking forward to returning to the wall soon and
getting strong! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy Climbing,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-43389378284412154932014-01-01T09:03:00.002-08:002014-01-01T09:03:35.192-08:00Youth Opens December 2013<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">December rolled around
more quickly this year, at least that’s how it felt, but I’d been training hard
ready for the team selection competitions the month bought. It was my first
competition in the upper end of A, but strong climbers I hadn’t competed
against for a couple of years were now back with me, so I was keen to see how
I’d get on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We travelled to <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>, the home of the weekend’s competing, on the
Friday evening and arose bright and early for the bouldering at The Works on
Saturday. The problems looked perfect, and after a warm up in the cold wall, I
managed to top 7 of the 8 techy problems, which qualified me for the final in 2<sup>nd</sup>.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoC7Ls19G718Nb2kRun9z_1Lx4IcHhaTjb6g5nl7Jgid6Y_q0YzcjL1lZeDNif3Y2jKStSUt_CwJACMrsSIF8aJnA6n4ZNHPrcenyDLwx4BUbIQs27jlCJT8Tgi5puFIuNf4N-dlMpFnE/s1600/11400563106_87639243c3_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoC7Ls19G718Nb2kRun9z_1Lx4IcHhaTjb6g5nl7Jgid6Y_q0YzcjL1lZeDNif3Y2jKStSUt_CwJACMrsSIF8aJnA6n4ZNHPrcenyDLwx4BUbIQs27jlCJT8Tgi5puFIuNf4N-dlMpFnE/s400/11400563106_87639243c3_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29Rw7ETBG17E7eiXsb8RFuYUTroBm4RwB0DYrr544QVN1CQrfOIsbullxmZ9oLGC3xtL17Pe5YxuYXk-ctSU595NJFKEpZru6jYw_JOo6MPDtcpcgmLBYPbSX4ep4diK-a4nJcQjvtpQ/s1600/11401177784_7664df6554_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29Rw7ETBG17E7eiXsb8RFuYUTroBm4RwB0DYrr544QVN1CQrfOIsbullxmZ9oLGC3xtL17Pe5YxuYXk-ctSU595NJFKEpZru6jYw_JOo6MPDtcpcgmLBYPbSX4ep4diK-a4nJcQjvtpQ/s400/11401177784_7664df6554_c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Qualifying</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The final problems
contained a great spread, with some techy and a powerful one. The first was a
flexibility requiring high heel before a massive last move to a giant jug. I
cam out knowing no-one had done it, so I went out looking to take an early
advantage. Unfortunately, it was just too hard and after making it to the final
move several times, I had to settle with a bonus. The second was a lot more
powerful for me, but whether I had the beta wrong or not it felt absolutely
nails. I was attempting to hang a swing on a one arm lock, but to no avail and
I walked away from the problem without even a bonus. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOK35Sa58LB-S1cYJiysV60cz7uCpBjGQd3DxcfwP2oy31Y14wTPDrwpFy3WyRL6NL-tY9-3xiDBpZHXNGr0HJQafM2tzyonaIkKmB6TZr_BXZgKCGq91VxPfjcvoZs8JvTAae7CrvW0/s1600/11402684896_000c63b2c6_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOK35Sa58LB-S1cYJiysV60cz7uCpBjGQd3DxcfwP2oy31Y14wTPDrwpFy3WyRL6NL-tY9-3xiDBpZHXNGr0HJQafM2tzyonaIkKmB6TZr_BXZgKCGq91VxPfjcvoZs8JvTAae7CrvW0/s400/11402684896_000c63b2c6_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Problem one in the final</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I knew the last problem
would suit me when I saw it, but I knew it would be the same for others in the
final so I was not confident it would be of any help. I came out and, after a
bit of fumbling about, managed to top it first go! I was happy with the climb
but not the final overall, but had managed to secure 3<sup>rd</sup> place
overall, putting me in good stead for the overall championship. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day I woke up
tired, aching but massively psyched for the lead comp, ready to crush at The Foundry!
I was up early on my first route so began warming up as soon as I got to the
wall, to give me enough time before I climbed. It was not as long as I was
hoping though, and I got on the route without being ideal, but fortunately I
managed to top the route, along with about 6 others in the category. A good
second route would still be required to put me safely into the final. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2sf7LKowlUTOiPQ0tLl_DE2KMiOuL4Gi9TquwXgUTr1HXwZE_9Uj64BmHQAZB73usBBt-GtXiLY3MDZLrnnQhIHeNAN2CVW-qa2GJYvhEtsYrIi4UY6sjQKEo6DYSknopoi4C0vSSCk/s1600/11455763716_1642f33642_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2sf7LKowlUTOiPQ0tLl_DE2KMiOuL4Gi9TquwXgUTr1HXwZE_9Uj64BmHQAZB73usBBt-GtXiLY3MDZLrnnQhIHeNAN2CVW-qa2GJYvhEtsYrIi4UY6sjQKEo6DYSknopoi4C0vSSCk/s400/11455763716_1642f33642_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Route 1</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The good route I needed
tackled the very centre of the wall and looked really quite hard. It was all on
tufas and slopers and just looked sketchy and difficult. People were falling
off quite low down on a difficult move, so I was very much hoping the same
didn’t happen to me! I was on almost last in the category, so had a while to
wait, but while warming up got horrendous stomach cramps, not the ideal
preparation for a competition route! Never the less, I managed to get warm and
relax, ready for the second route. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmouD7HzqSYYWpdC771uWl1IaZnlLbgtmR2RZ93KApdQ6x8oX5-_Qq8NPEhc3qyi6t27zlq9dcYh4rOCKSqeNEoKKrZKVTaHgpjVdqPRXFnhUizY54K2gwnXuzPeuGmGM-ia9Yn2gsOMw/s1600/11457651904_465769642a_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmouD7HzqSYYWpdC771uWl1IaZnlLbgtmR2RZ93KApdQ6x8oX5-_Qq8NPEhc3qyi6t27zlq9dcYh4rOCKSqeNEoKKrZKVTaHgpjVdqPRXFnhUizY54K2gwnXuzPeuGmGM-ia9Yn2gsOMw/s400/11457651904_465769642a_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0asLU7QVIYN2Zs9_5H9Ao2AmJnpoH0SWfxmUrkBo-B335JhX3d5ws7LRJYxZrDkgWSyeXSQcqM62EBaNHQFLRPcDb-ApfqUeXPpKXocDMIj39Xd0MsryK-15fvplMIC7IwfnjIpPTKE/s1600/11457789533_efa904af66_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0asLU7QVIYN2Zs9_5H9Ao2AmJnpoH0SWfxmUrkBo-B335JhX3d5ws7LRJYxZrDkgWSyeXSQcqM62EBaNHQFLRPcDb-ApfqUeXPpKXocDMIj39Xd0MsryK-15fvplMIC7IwfnjIpPTKE/s400/11457789533_efa904af66_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Route 2</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was balancy and rather
awkward on the slopers from the ground, but I managed to get up into the
steeper, more powerful section, but the slopers (not my forte) had got me far
more pumped than I should have been after only that long. I pulled hard, but
with a misjudgement of beta on a tufa brought about by pump-panic, I was off.
It was enough though, and I was through to the final. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Isolation was long, and I
was tired when warming up. I really dislike the format the BMC brought in last
year. Having 2 comps on the same weekend doesn’t make sense for those looking
to perform in both. I personally need to be fully rested to perform at my best,
and having a hard boulder session before an important lead comp would be
ridiculous for me, yet anyone with ambitions in both lead and bouldering is
forced to. In my eyes it devalues the lead competition. I know there would be
an increased cost to run them both on separate days, but if climbing is to be
taken seriously as a contender for an Olympic spot then I think we have to make
changes like this. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Back to isolation, and I
was warm and psyched. I came out and saw draws swinging really high, so I knew
Pete had done well. I pulled on and sauntered up to the steeper section. It was
hard, on slopers and tufas much like the first route, as well as up the steep
wall once again. I powered my way onto a volume, but had completely run out of
foot holds. I swung them up high to my hand to get some push across to the next
tufa, but to no avail. I peeled off backwards into space, far short of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">high point</st1:city></st1:place> and frustrated.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCEjtk9TQTMEBETszCejJKOs4v7skcHAo5jrNOhMf0jTlWuYd4kZGl9iD5uOXrSXuRg74TMxLJJHXYghjLx0fmc9U8VSmTAGWP1geW8N5ttNSId5x1jqYlwuKM0Z00CcKLlR4bWbZMAM/s1600/11462588255_7f4c4c0d5d_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCEjtk9TQTMEBETszCejJKOs4v7skcHAo5jrNOhMf0jTlWuYd4kZGl9iD5uOXrSXuRg74TMxLJJHXYghjLx0fmc9U8VSmTAGWP1geW8N5ttNSId5x1jqYlwuKM0Z00CcKLlR4bWbZMAM/s400/11462588255_7f4c4c0d5d_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Getting twisty in the final</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I ended up 4<sup>th</sup>,
not the best result but it was enough to get me reselected for the GB lead team
as well as the GB boulder team, so bring on 2014! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Thanks to Peter Wuensche for the pictures!</span></div>
<h2 class="_6-f" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 30px; margin: 0px; max-width: 275px; padding: 0px;">
<br /></h2>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-74016395264894893512013-11-27T17:12:00.002-08:002013-11-27T17:12:32.558-08:00Wales and Ireland<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve competed at, as far
as I know, every Welsh Championships there has been, and this year was no
exception! Despite the fact that it was in North Wales, a 7 hour journey (further
than <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>!) away, I was psyched for the
comp! We travelled up late on the Friday, slept in the van in the car park and
were up early for the comp the next day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The format for the Welsh
is different to most comps, in that you do a whole 5 routes in a day, from the
morning’s 3 qualifying climbs to the semis and finals in the afternoon. This
format is good in terms of getting as much climbing as possible into a comp,
and its great training having to climb that many routes in the day, though it
does take some getting used to. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I flashed the 3 qualifiers
and the semis pretty easily, but knew the final looked much harder, and would
be difficult to top. I qualifier into the final in 1<sup>st</sup>, so came out
last. I could see the draws swinging from the previous climber, so knew where I
had to get to win. It was a goal, a point where I knew if I reached I would
win. I set off, and passed the <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">high
point</st1:place></st1:city>. I powered through the 10 or so moves, knowing I
had won, but the psyche I felt was different. I was not climbing for a win, I
was climbing for pride. This was not the psyche I was ready for, fired up for a
competition final, and my mindset changed. I tried hard, and pushed through
some very powerful moves, but my foot slipped around half height and I was off.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">When I got down it was
confirmed, I had won! I chilled out, watched the rest of the <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">finals and had a quick
play on the 8a+ senior final, falling on the last move! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day we headed out
bouldering in the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Ogwen</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Pass</st1:placetype></st1:place>, where despite the
cold conditions I came away with a V8 flash and a V9! It was just my style with
little crimps on gently overhanging rock; I just wish there had been more of
it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> This weekend it was the turn of the Irish to
host their national championships. This year the senior and junior events had
been split up, so I could only make it to one of them, and decided to go for
the senior title once again. I knew competition would be tough, and when the
whole of the Irish junior team and last years second place were on the entry
list, that was made certain! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first route of the
day, starting on jugs and finishing with a spicy section on slopers, and I was
4<sup>th</sup> up. I like climbing early on my first route, it gives me a time
to target my warm-up at, and this time was no exception. Bar a couple of big
moves at the top, the route was no problem and I topped along with a good few
of the senior males.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next route was an
entirely different prospect, with a big dyno around the 4<sup>th</sup> clip and
an incredibly balancey and technical final few moves across a volume. I was
relatively pumped when I reached those moves, so a sit down rest on a volume
was well received when setting up for the final moves. It was such a nice final
sequence, I squtted down on the volume, keeping my centre of mass low and
rocked over onto my foot. I reached the little intermediate and bumped again to
the finishing jug, topping the second qualifier. Dom Burns, the current
European bouldering champion, was the only other climber to top the route,
putting us in joint 1<sup>st</sup><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> going in to the final. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Next up was the final! I
didn’t have a clue how far people had got when I came out. Normally you can
tell from the crowd how people are doing, but this time we were too far away to
tell. All I could do was top, or at least make a damn good effort at it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I came out and looked up.
The route was very powerful and burly in the lower section, but I managed to
avoid most of the pulling with some high feet and a good few heel hooks! From
there it was just my style. Little crimps and heel hooks, Ideal! I rested as
much as I could, but knew that the final decider would be time in the case of a
tie between me and Dom, so I couldn’t hang around. I reached across to an
extremely tenuous side pull, bumped my hand in and reached up to the bottom of
the volume. I slapped onto the volume and rocked over, squeezing myself against
the volume to gain a basically no hands rest. I could have stayed here for
another 5 minutes, recovered completely and gone for the move, but I knew time
would be the decider if Dom reached the same point. I pushed up on the volume,
eyed up the hold, and threw! I was close, but just at the deadpoint of the
swing my grip failed and I was off into space. Just another centimetre would
have been enough, but not this time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibsZ2Zx5pnjcJDW75NfeTRpuyAKcBZrr2XMkgQ2hCCtGwFd_MaY5F8MkY3WRLhkOQlyIJJsXlBRcrfACo5gtngIUd3xRVTbvFWJmjXo6QjQjuV8aCJX0vk_UedKhomDE0llc8Yy1ceKgM/s1600/IMG_2016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibsZ2Zx5pnjcJDW75NfeTRpuyAKcBZrr2XMkgQ2hCCtGwFd_MaY5F8MkY3WRLhkOQlyIJJsXlBRcrfACo5gtngIUd3xRVTbvFWJmjXo6QjQjuV8aCJX0vk_UedKhomDE0llc8Yy1ceKgM/s640/IMG_2016.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The final route! Credit:
John Banyard<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cSdtyErlyQEIA5EcYMX2RWwCwNWXrG4eyiwqmypVoPqVA9MNPh0ASC0dlFe58lQDq_Alm5BbzYQuSIP0P1A9RKEyEJL5he4F_Jk20HtpT9LaNxqDpMNl6K8c__EPgFXg6dBuDpNWlfw/s1600/IMG_2028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cSdtyErlyQEIA5EcYMX2RWwCwNWXrG4eyiwqmypVoPqVA9MNPh0ASC0dlFe58lQDq_Alm5BbzYQuSIP0P1A9RKEyEJL5he4F_Jk20HtpT9LaNxqDpMNl6K8c__EPgFXg6dBuDpNWlfw/s640/IMG_2028.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Go big or go home! Credit:
John Banyard</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was all down to Dom
now. He set off and looked pumped from half way, but fought his way to the
volume and rested his forearms. He was trying to press up with his feet and use
the arête, but kept coming back to the volume to rest. After another attempt at
pressing up, he went for the jump, getting 2 fingers on the hold but, like me,
not sticking it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was down to time! A
nervous wait followed, and after the judges checked multiple times it was
decided; I was Irish champion again! I was so psyched to win this competition
for a second year, the first title I have ever defended and my first senior
title of the year! Bring on 2014! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifxu6oZ1ufaerFheRFV8yGBc7zTJ_56Hp1pgjNzN00T7QQwHJi9LBpPP5I32OYcjL6-rku3uo2wi5jdXxagDzzRkberFK4INox6ZOf82NarWZiDtrQIO2bFK77BiCIIT3Idri9Yox_NI/s1600/IMG_2095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifxu6oZ1ufaerFheRFV8yGBc7zTJ_56Hp1pgjNzN00T7QQwHJi9LBpPP5I32OYcjL6-rku3uo2wi5jdXxagDzzRkberFK4INox6ZOf82NarWZiDtrQIO2bFK77BiCIIT3Idri9Yox_NI/s400/IMG_2095.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the podium Credit: John
Banyard<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My next competition in the
lead and bouldering youth opens in <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>
in December, where I hope to be reselected onto both the lead and boulder
teams. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-20102385301850322852013-10-21T11:10:00.002-07:002013-10-21T11:10:16.224-07:00Laval<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was selected for the GB
junior bouldering team last year, at the December youth open, but last weekend
was the first time I’d had the opportunity to experience a European bouldering
competition. We met the team in <st1:city w:st="on">Manchester</st1:city>
airport, and after a bumpy flight, a long wait at the airport and negotiating
the infamous traffic of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Paris</st1:place></st1:city>,
we arrived in the city. The competition was being advertised everywhere, so we
knew the finals were going to be a real spectacle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After a long opening
ceremony on the Friday night, we headed for bed, ready for an early start on
the Saturday to watch the girls and prepare for our qualifications. The wall
looked amazing, 4 blocs separate from each other on the raised stage of a
stadium sized arena. We went for a run to warm up in the morning cold, and then
headed to the warm up wall below the arena. While bouldering to warm up, I was
impressed at just how strong some of the climbers were, and knew it was going
to be a tough competition. I’d not experienced European blocs before, so was
keen to get on them and see how they felt. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was a frustrating
competition for me. I topped the first problem I tried, a quite powerful but
technical climb up a vertical wall on gastons, but it went downhill from there.
I seemed to be close on so many problems, but could not get the tops I needed.
I managed the first, easiest problem after that, but no more. The main
difference I discovered compared to lead competitions, is that while there is
less pressure on every attempt, as if you’re off that’s not it all over, you
need to keep motivated and positive throughout the whole of the 2 hour period.
If you fall in a lead comp you have hours or even a day between routes to
reflect, get frustrated and get psyched, but in a boulder comp every fall
builds up, and requires a quite different mindset to deal with, something that
with my relative inexperience of bouldering I have not yet learnt. This will
come with time, but its still going to be annoying to fall off with a hand on
the finishing hold, or come within a move of topping 3 others. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For Nathan, the captain of
the GB team, this was his last junior competition, and he went out with style!
He won the final in an atmosphere of the best psyche I’ve seen in a
competition. It really was inspiring to see, and it was great to see him on the
top step of the podium, the first I’ve seen since I stared competing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day was the turn
of the Youth B’s, and they had their qualification in a separate venue. In
their first boulder competition, Pete and William both managed to make a
European final! I really do envy them for their qualifiers, a whole set of
slabs and crimps, hopefully something I get more of, rather than powerful
campus moves off slopers, not really my thing that! It was another great final,
and we cam away with another podium, with William making 3<sup>rd</sup> place! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I really enjoyed my first
boulder comp, and really hope I get to take part in more next year! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-59815881408410441742013-10-16T15:07:00.000-07:002013-10-16T15:07:00.598-07:00BLCCs 2013<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Every year the British
Lead Climbing Championships is held too far away in the smoke fuelled north.
This year, happily, it was a little bit less north, with the event taking place
for the first time I can remember south of the border at the new Awesome Walls
centre in <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>. The wall looks amazing,
and is great to climb on, it’s just a shame it’s so far away or it would be
perfect for training. This was the first time the wall had be used, opening for
the comp, so it was the perfect level playing field.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The Saturday was the day
for the junior competition, so we arrived bright and early to view the new wall
and the routes that had been set for us. They looked great, and I was early on
my first route, so set about warming up. The first route was really easy, no
harder than 7a I’m sure, but the entire category topped it, so it was all down
to the second qualifier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was the first route
of the day up the main steep competition wall, and it followed the right arête
of the protruding roof. This wall just as steep as the Ratho hangar wall, and
is the closest I’ve seen in this country that comes close to that level of
imposingness. The route began with a technical section of crimps and undercuts,
before moving downwards onto a jug and a big move out around the arête. I hung
around for too long on the jugs under the lip, shaking out the pump building in
my arms but it was only getting worse. I had to go, and got my foot high and
threw for the hold, my feet swinging off but sticking the move. I was pumped by
this point, but kept moving and managed a couple more big moves before an
awkward cross under spat me off. With only 4 in the category making it through
to the final it was going to be tight as to who made it, and after Buster and
Connor topped the route there were only 2 places remaining. Fortunately the 2
people who got past the big move in the roof fell off the same move as me, so I
qualified for the final in =3<sup>rd</sup> place.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYtCGb4gADCSk1VS7E6rwu7l-WzdZVLl8ljteZ4vOc73jJTDn6euQL88Ikkn-7O4viRJpoEtb9QF0WiwgB8SVAu8T2MOlxtdttuOaf1Ebsp_R6tY4R2QKhu0eCSyIt8zdjC0x7TMWu1Y/s1600/pumped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYtCGb4gADCSk1VS7E6rwu7l-WzdZVLl8ljteZ4vOc73jJTDn6euQL88Ikkn-7O4viRJpoEtb9QF0WiwgB8SVAu8T2MOlxtdttuOaf1Ebsp_R6tY4R2QKhu0eCSyIt8zdjC0x7TMWu1Y/s400/pumped.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
So pumped I'm dragging! Photo credit: Peter Wuensche</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was annoyed that the
route we were to be climbing was leaked before isolation, so everyone had ample
time to read the route and decide their sequence. I feel like the onsight
factor suites me with just a 6 minute observation, so to have climbers
discussing routes with their coaches or even drawing route maps is frustrating,
and ruins the feel of a final for me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My final route went
straight through the steepest part of the roof, and looked particularly cruxy
through the beginning of the roof. I was first out, and the beginning section
was much more powerful and pumpy than I expected, and I had to throw for a lot
of holds, not the ideal style for a lead competition. I arrived at the roof
pumped, and despite shaking out on a sloper below the steep section I had to
continue climbing still pumped. I reached an undercut at the beginning of the
roof, threw out to a side-pull further out and got my heel under the undercut.
The move I had read looked too big, so I desperately grabbed for a volume that
I, and the rest of my category, had read as a foothold. I spent a good 2
minutes scoping out every surface of that volume with a pair of binoculars and
could see no hold, but to my surprise, there was a veritable jug on the other
side. I knew I would have to bicycle the hold next to my right hand to stick
the move, but my heel was on the wrong side and I was too pumped to switch my
feet, so I squeezed and hoped I could make the match, but was off. All but one
in the category read the move wrong, and Connor made it to the same place as I
did, placing my 2<sup>nd</sup> via count back. I’m pleased with the result,
though it was luck that got me there more than anything. I have defiantly
learned not to discount holds, especially if they appear to be the only way!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18K7OhBspP-4qK0leM9DZUWtwBJ85SbFERqSdJdWyMeMZRze9LnQ31zi5_YAHXL10f21FxsiK85OIs3XEotkaRHQDk80bstp6nPECK2L00W-538B00zbK_0KY_KsuPkNmCWZdRQFC2rw/s1600/volume.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18K7OhBspP-4qK0leM9DZUWtwBJ85SbFERqSdJdWyMeMZRze9LnQ31zi5_YAHXL10f21FxsiK85OIs3XEotkaRHQDk80bstp6nPECK2L00W-538B00zbK_0KY_KsuPkNmCWZdRQFC2rw/s400/volume.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Heel up and moving to the mysterious volume... Photo credit: Peter Wuensche</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day, and it was
time for the senior event. This is the first year I have be eligible to compete
in the senior competition, and was keen to make the most of it. I was on my
hardest route first, so was psyched and ready to go when the time came. I was
on early, so not too many people had gone, but there seemed to be big moves
between slopers low down, and then my perfect style higher up, technical and
crimpy on a slightly overhanging wall. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The route felt awkward and
hard from the start, with a match by the 4<sup>th</sup> clip feeling very hard.
I knew a big move was coming, and clipped high ready to jump between the
slopers. I moved into the first, it felt terrible and slippery, and I stopped
to consider my options, reversing the move. I knew it was big, and it looked
bigger from here, so I knew I was going to have to jump, boulder style or try
and get my foot up and static the move. I opted for the latter, a mistake it
would seem after I slid backwards off the route, only 14 moves in. It was
frustrating to fall off that low, but I know that next year I will be stronger
and taller, ready to tackle the harder moves in the seniors</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkW1f0QagsfLjvFuZ7kuk6LSwxt6ixLWRMl8zOJZZBCwuUIdRNcjVg0bQtMrdGQT_AmDyrjTmDQOjnMoby2YLJZrTmjKQI_6QiUNeRTU2SweFBvWEx6nnISnPJlTq84DwUG4h_DkfKJc/s1600/seniors1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkW1f0QagsfLjvFuZ7kuk6LSwxt6ixLWRMl8zOJZZBCwuUIdRNcjVg0bQtMrdGQT_AmDyrjTmDQOjnMoby2YLJZrTmjKQI_6QiUNeRTU2SweFBvWEx6nnISnPJlTq84DwUG4h_DkfKJc/s400/seniors1.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Starting up Route 1. Photo credit: Peter Wuensche</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The second route was my
exact style, vertical and crimpy, and I topped it pretty easily, along with
about 10 others. A nice end, but not enough for the final. A frustrating end to
my first senior BLCCs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvPMJQwZ7BmbKuAWk5t8_Trpq8sikBMatM2NOVn1Pbi9tmPdPoB8ZIS8TC15iNAwewZBxNSvl3Uq7S6iUmjmL22N47NzMKjah0_z6T4PkOSFHtSnC1-CCBC_QLtfdroUNvE-Me1lq7G4/s1600/easypeasy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvPMJQwZ7BmbKuAWk5t8_Trpq8sikBMatM2NOVn1Pbi9tmPdPoB8ZIS8TC15iNAwewZBxNSvl3Uq7S6iUmjmL22N47NzMKjah0_z6T4PkOSFHtSnC1-CCBC_QLtfdroUNvE-Me1lq7G4/s400/easypeasy.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Crimpin' on route 2! Photo credit: Peter Wuensche</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have just returned from
my first Boulder EYC in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Laval</st1:city>,
<st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place>, so will
be blogging soon about my weekend and experiences. Stay tuned!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-70545716566790182842013-09-29T12:22:00.002-07:002013-09-29T12:22:38.579-07:00Norway and Worlds<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After my performances last
year, and with making 2 European finals, I was this year selected for the World
Youth Championships in Victoria, Canada along with a small group of the GB
team; Molly, Pete, Buster, Jim and William. The flight was long, dull and
filled with films, with the most exciting event being the finding of an
unattended in-flight cookie box around 5 hours in. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></st1:place> from the air is incredible,
so vast, empty and untouched, we flew for hours without seeing a town or even a
road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After short hop from <st1:city w:st="on">Vancouver</st1:city> to <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Victoria</st1:place></st1:state>
in the scariest little plane I have encountered, we were on the island, and
were to spend the next few days adjusting to the time difference and the place
as a whole. The city was amazing, and unlike anywhere else I’ve been to, every
person I met was happy and always ready for a chat. The amount of random
strangers I had conversations with was staggering! In terms of the time
difference I didn’t suffer too badly, and found waking up was actually easier than
in the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">UK</st1:place></st1:country-region>!
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The Team!</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Friday rolled around, and
it was time for the first qualifiers. I was one of the last to climb in the
biggest category of the event, so waited for hours under the giant wall,
watching the competition unfold. I met a fair few new people on that day and
the opening ceremony the previous night, and it was great to talk to some of
them during the day. It was late before I started my climb, but I knew what I
was doing, knew I was fit and knew I was ready. In the first part of the climb
I felt sketchy and perhaps a bit nervous, but when I got to the rest I told
myself to relax, enjoy it and climb my best, and I did. I fought as high as I
could, and made it beyond any expectations I had, falling pumped within 2 clips
of the top. You can do no more than fall off fighting, and that’s exactly what
I did! I ended up 13th<b> </b>on that
route, which put me in with a very good chance of making the semis, so I could
relax some more and focus on my next route, and try to do as well as I could.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Qualifier 1 (Photo By Nick Pope!)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Like the first, my second
qualifier began vertical and steepened out into a roof towards the top, and
looked like my perfect style! I was on much earlier today, and this meant I
could warm up as soon as I got to the wall, which helped to calm my nerves.
Normally on routes in competitions they feel easier than they looked, that is
the holds are bigger than they look from the ground, and the moves not as long,
but on this route this was not the case! It was insecure and sketchy but I made
my way up to the vertical wall to a rest, where I composed myself for the
harder moves above. I moved off and up, and got to a long rockover around the
arête. It was one of the harder moves on the route, and required a fair amount
of commitment. I rocked to it, moving off the intermediate, but only got to the
bottom of the hold. I clawed at wall trying to move the last inch but despite
coming so close, I peeled off backwards into the air. I’m normally good at
rockovers, so to fall off here was frustrating! It was enough though, and I
qualified for the semi final in 17<sup>th</sup>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Qualifier 2 (Photo By Nick Pope!)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The rest day was relaxing
and gave me time to reflect on my performance, but before I knew it, it was
back to the wall and into isolation. During observation the route looked just
my style, techy and vert into more steep, crimp climbing. It looked perfect,
and I was psyched to get on it! My time rolled around, and I was ready. From
the start I felt good, and pretty solid on the first section. I got past the
vertical and was resting ready to go for a big tufa that marked the beginning
of the steeper section. I went for the move ready to use a small foothold as an
intermediate, but it was terrible! I returned to the hold, ready to make the
move again but had to move my hand around the rope, or it would have been in my
way to do the move. I bumped it off, went around the rope, but when coming back
down I hit the hold again wrong. I popped off it, over balanced and fell. I was
devastated; to fall off with such a stupid mistake was completely frustrating.
I ended up 24<sup>th</sup>, which with my qualifying results being much better
I know there is lots of room for improvement, so bring on next year! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The Semis (Photos By Nick Pope!)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">From <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region>, after I got over my horrendous jetlag,
it was to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region>
for the final EYC of the year. The wall was in an ice rink, so warming up was
the first challenge! The group sizes were relatively small, compared to
somewhere like Imst at least, so I knew I would be on my first route reasonably
early. I warmed up as normal and felt ready to climb my best. This was my last
chance of the year to make a European final, so I had to get it right. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My first route was no soft
touch. The vertical wall was littered with slopers that I knew were going to
get my pumped. I sat in the chair, but was beginning to cool down as soon as I
got off the warm-up wall. By the time it was my turn to climb, I felt fine, but
as soon as I got onto the cold holds of the wall my fingers got cold I started
to get pumped. I sketched my way over an awkward move off a sloper and rested
on a volume, but just couldn’t shake off the pump. I had to press on, and hope
it got no worse. I dug deep, and pulled over a lip before a move to and
undercut defeated me. I came off pumped and frustrated with a final place of 12<sup>th</sup>
on the route. Not bad, but not good enough for a place in the final yet. I had
to do better, and I knew warming up effectively and staying warm would be
key. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was dejected, but tried
to stay positive. The route looked hard, and I was particularly worried about a
section in the middle. I started and heel hooked my way up the arête to what
looked like a hit or miss slap to a sloper, and there seemed to be more miss
than hit. I got onto the hold below, looked up and reversed the moves. A high
heel to hand, a rockover and a bit of luck later and I was past it, thank god for
heels! I was pumped, but managed to fight my way to the next hard move, where I
managed a crucial match on a big sloper before pumping out and peeling off. Now
it was time to wait. For my efforts I gained a joint 4<sup>th</sup> place on
that route, and had to wait the agonising hours to see if I could sneak in. The
end draw closer and I was dropping places slowly. 6<sup>th</sup>… 7<sup>th</sup>…
8<sup>th</sup>… 9<sup>th</sup>… Then came 10<sup>th</sup>, the one place no-one
wants to be with the end still not close. There were 5 to climb, then 2, then
none. I had made it to the final of my first European this year, along with the
rest of the GB junior team! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The 2nd Qualifier</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day, finals day
and I was set to go. I felt strong, and fit and ready. The route during
observation looked desperate, with a hard double dyno move at half height. I
read with a number of people, but knew the sequence was hard to read, and
ensured I had multiple options for every move. I sat in the chair, put my shoes
on, and then my favourite song came on in the arena. Perfect. I walked out,
stood under the wall and read the climb. Time to go! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I had a huge scare at the
second clip, where I had missed that one of the volumes was in fact a giant jug
and went too statically, and almost didn’t reach it. Fortunately I held on, and
fought my way through the lower section of the climb. I rested on a heel hook
over a small lip and made my way, with some fighting, to the crimps before the
dyno. It looked even bigger from here! I rested for what felt like an age on
the crimps, and knew I would have to go for it. I got my feet up, and went!
Looking back, it seemed like I was trying to do the move statically, or at
least keep a hand on. I touched the hold, but couldn’t bring my other hand over
to match it, and fell. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Looking back, maybe I
should have rested longer on the holds, and gone for it with full commitment.
But, I must say, the dyno was inappropriate for our age category. 4 fell at the
same spot, and count back had to be used to separate us. One climber made the
jump, and won the competition. This seems to be a new thing in competition lead
climbing, dynos on the route. There were 2 in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region>, for some categories
suitable and others perhaps not. Most recently on the male final in Purrs a
sideways dyno caught out many of the strongest climbers in the world. Will there
be more? I don’t know, but I will definitely be practising from now on! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I finished 5<sup>th</sup>
in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region>,
My best result in a European to date, and in my first year of the category.
Hopefully next year we can bump that best up a place or four! My next comp is
the junior and senior British Lead Climbing Championships in Sheffield next
weekend, and then my first bouldering EYC in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Laval</st1:place></st1:city> next month, and am training hard! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Massive thank you to Paul
Allen Wealth Management for their support, and bring on next year!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy climbing!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-43818235881326887592013-09-04T15:31:00.002-07:002013-09-04T15:31:35.412-07:00The Road Trip<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sat in my final maths exam
staring out at the sunshine, thinking about how the next weeks would pan out, I
would never have imagined some of the people I’ve met, the places I’ve been and
the climbs I’ve done. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We set off from the
conclusion of that very exam, straight from school to begin the 7 week long
roadtrip we had been planning since the beginning of the year. After a family
wedding in <st1:city w:st="on">Cambridge</st1:city>, we met up with Billy
Ridal, one of my friends from the comp circuit who was also on the trip to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Spain</st1:place></st1:country-region> earlier
in the year, who would be accompanying us on our journey. We were packed,
psyched and ready to go, and boarded the ferry with high spirits. Bar the black
foot marks in the cabin from constant "cabin bouldering", the 2 day journey passed
relatively painlessly and we arrived in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Bilbao</st1:place></st1:city>
ready to hit up the first stop on the list, Baltzola cave! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The one place we didn't
have the guide for turned out to be the hardest to find a topo for, obviously,
and we spent many hours in the city searching! Not to be outdone, we found the
position of the crag online and decided to venture out topoless, and got on one
of the nice lines until (we hoped!) some locals arrived. I managed the climb 3<sup>rd</sup>
go, after falling from the last move on the second, and when a group arrived I
was happy to find out it was in fact an 8a called “Blandiju”! As well as the
route identification, we were also pointed to a topo online, which gives fairly
accurate information about the routes in the cave. Fresh from my success on the
first climb, I decided to try another 8, and settled on the 8a+ “Iluminatis”,
another steep roof line, which despite trying it intending to get up the next
day, I managed 2<sup>nd</sup> go! A very successful first day! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Second day, and I got on
another 8a+, “Black Kongi”, which starts up the classic 8c of the crag, “White
Zombie”, then ends with a boulder problem. It was an awesome line, and when I
didn’t manage it that day I was deliberating whether to come back and finish it
off or to move on to the next crag without the risk of another failure. Nice
one to Billy for getting his 2<sup>nd</sup> 8a, and his first of the trip at
this amazing crag! I made the decision to give it a last few attempts, and
managed it, after a few good falls from up high. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I made a video of our time
in Baltzola, including all the hardest climbs we managed. Some of the zoomed
shots really capture the scale of the place! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After finishing the climb
we left the crag and headed out to our next planned destination, Rodellar!
There are very few, European destinations that allow for hard summer climbing,
but with its North-South gorge giving morning and afternoon shade, and its
proximity to the river, Rodellar is perfect, as well as having a great climbing
scene! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My goal for the entire
trip was to manage an 8a onsight, so with the aim in mind I set out to try as
many 8a's as I could find, and it seemed like Rodellar would be the perfect
place to do it, with plenty to choose from. We began with some fun mileage in
the morning then set off for some more serious stuff on the huge wall of Gran
Bovida. The goal for the day was an onsight attempt of Coliseum, the most
onsighted route at Rodellar and a 40m long stamina fest. I set off, but despite
easy climbing I was pumped out of my mind by half height, and came off fighting
as hard as I ever have. I was going to need to be fitter! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I tried many more 8as in
the coming days, falling off most in the last hard moves. I’m not sure if it
was a mental block, or I wasn’t fit enough, or the routes just didn’t suit me,
but despite coming within moves of success, the tick eluded me! I managed some
great climbs in Rodallar though, with 3 8a ticks and a 7c+ onsight (almost
falling clipping the chains!). Perhaps the most significant for me though was
redpointing El Delphin, the mega classic roof climb through a huge arch well
above the valley floor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The route itself isn’t
particularly good and the climbing for the most part is not too hard, but the
mental battle for me to clip the chains was intense. It wasn’t the difficulty
of the route, but the combination of the exposure, the (from my point of view)
poor fixed gear and insecure looking rock flipped some sort of switch in my
head, and I just freaked out. When I fell off on the onsight, I was a gibbering
wreck of fear. I haven’t been scared of falling for some years now, in fact I
have come to enjoy it, but this climb made me feel like I didn’t even want to
weight the rope, for fear of the rope snapping on the worn draws. If I stopped,
let the route beat me and moved on, I felt like I could develop a mental block,
and it could slow down my rapid progress on the trip. I had to get back on the
route, just to show myself that I could do it. The next go I came off again,
panicked, but less so than the first attempt, which was good. I got back on,
and with a fight I slapped through the last boulder problem and clipped the
chains. Not a route I plan to do again in a hurry, but an important step in
improving my climbing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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El Delphin</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">From Rodellar we headed to
Terradets, but even with the morning shade the heat was unbearable, and the
rock felt slick in the humidity. The sixes felt hard, the eights felt just as
hard, and when the sun finally peaked over the top of the crag, with no
meaningful ascents under my belt, I left feeling frustrated. We drove off to
find the next crag, Tres Pons. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Tres Pons is exactly my
style, long, not too steep and on positive crimps, and with the summer heat
being kept at bay by the river and the shade, was the perfect destination. We
arrived too early on the first day for the afternoon crag, but as soon as the
sun was off it we got on an unnamed 7b to warm up, and wow was it amazing! This
is the single best route I did on the trip, and I’m not even sure why. All the
moves just flowed, and gave me a route that meant I came down smiling. Perfect!
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Fresh from this fun I
geared up for an onsight attempt of a route to the left, Alt Urgell, a 7c that
extends into an 8a. I had wanted to go for the onsight of the 7c, but put a few
extra draws on so I could try the extension if I got there. I set off, and
after choosing the wrong line of holds at the start and having to down-climb to
just off the ground, I was soon at the end of the 7c section looking up at the
final steep moves before a hard looking slab to the chain. I was already about
30m up at this point, but I could recover for the last 10m on jugs by the first
lower off. I composed myself, and went for the crimps above. It was hard
climbing, but all the onsighting I’d been doing meant I knew what to do, and
with some high feet and long rockovers I was stood on the slab, shaking out my
arms and staring at the chain some metres above. It was a case of moving
slowly, taking the route one move at a time and ensuring I didn’t make any
mistakes. Every move was a calculated risk, but when I latched the final flake
that I knew would take me to the top, I let out a shout of delight! I climbed
to the chains, clipped them, and lowered off. I’d done it, my first 8a onsight!
I left happy that night, and looked forward to the next day at this perfect
crag. Effort to Billy, who also managed to top this route, despite being a bit
under the weather. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We warmed up on the 7b
again, but it didn’t seem as good as the previous day, which was a shame, but
it was no matter, and I decided, after some recommendations from locals, to try
for the onsight of another 8a. This again was the extension of a 7c+, but also
extended again into and 8a+ finish. I took enough draws for the whole thing,
more out of hope than any real confidence I would reach the top. I pulled
through the 7c+ well, and got to the angle change that marked the start of the
8a extension, another slab! The moves were technical and balancey, with every
movement a risk of a foot pop or a slip. A few tenuous metres later, and I
clipped the chain, surprised to have ticked my second 8a onsight in as many
days. But there was more to come! Just 15 metres of slab climbing stood between
me and bettering the whole goal of my trip. I was high up, but I relaxed and focused on the next move. I committed where I needed to, rested where I could
and after battling with 60 metres of rope drag, a sketchy mantle and almost
falling clipping every clip, I had reached the top of my first 8a+ onsight. I
lowered off ecstatic, but sad to be leaving this perfect crag. Props to Billy,
the hero of the day, who, when a storm stopped his attempt, battled to the top
through the heaviest rain I’ve seen, and the loudest thunder I’ve heard, to
strip the route. Not something many people would be queuing up to try! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After picking up my Mum
and Brother from the airport, Billy and I were deposited in Ceuse, the crag I
had visited last year, while the rest of my family enjoyed rainy days in the
Verdon Gorge. Ceuse did not escape the rain however, and after the first day or
so rain was a constant delight we experienced almost daily. I managed to climb
far harder than last year though, ticking Dolce Vita (8a+) before the rain set
in and climbing the steep and powerful L'ami de tout le monde (8b), after a
problem latching a long move by the 3<sup>rd</sup> bolt. I also spent some time
working Slow Food, and extremely powerful 8b+ that begins with a V8 boulder
that I was very close to linking, for me the key to the route, and definitely
something to got back for when I’m stronger. Ceuse, as with last year, was full
of great people, and the atmosphere is amazing, so I will of course be
returning lots in the coming years. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The last stop on the
outdoor leg of our journey to Imst was in Gorge Du Loup, the group of crags I
had visited earlier in the year. Just an afternoon there, in the dry tufa-lines
of Deverse was enough to convince me that this was in fact a good crag, and
after climbing the mega classic 8a+ Deverse Satanique, I was keen to return to
the many more hard lines this steep wall has to offer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">From Loup, it was off to
Imst, so, after stopping at the Arco and <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Innsbruck</st1:place></st1:city>
indoor walls to re-remember how to climb on plastic and 2 days or driving we met
the team. A couple of days of rest later, it was time for the comp. My first
route and I felt calm, confident and fit, but a slip moving off a pinch ended
the climb short of where I wanted, and needed, to be. I came 40<sup>th</sup> on
this route, but just 4 moves more would have put me joint 10<sup>th</sup>, so
to be so close and coming off relatively fresh is frustrating. On my second
route, I climbed well, but with a small mistake higher up I was off in a much
better 15<sup>th</sup> place, so I was reasonably happy. Overall I finished 28<sup>th</sup>,
my worst result in a European competition. I needed to stem the mistakes and
climb to my best to make the final in this comp, but the fact I can be close on
many of my climbs in encouraging, especially for next year when I should be
stronger and fitter after a winter of training. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After climbing on the
final problems on Sunday, we started to leave when we experienced the first
breakdown of the trip! The muppet of a mechanic they sent out didn’t have a
clue, but with a promise of having it seen to in the morning we were left at a
campsite. Turns out the problem was electrical, and with an hour of tinkering
we had found the trick (which involves pulling wires around the ignition when
you go to start), and we could drive consistently. Off to Font!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Font was so much better
than I expected. Even though we only made it to Bas Curvier, the sheer volume
and quality of the problems that were there made me want to go back as soon as
I could! While there, I managed Carnage (F7B+) and was excruciatingly close to
the sit start, which is definitely something to go back for as it is such an
amazing problem. I also climbed many easier problems, as the heat made it
difficult to redpoint, but even these we a far superior quality to any boulders
I have climbed in the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">UK</st1:place></st1:country-region>.
I am not the greatest fan of pebble pulling, but this place was definitely the
best argument I’ve had for giving it a good go! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">More driving, another
ferry and the European leg of the trip was over, but we still had one final
destination, the annual summer Youth Open comp in Leeds, and the first to
include bouldering in the form of the Junior BBCs (British Bouldering
Championships) round 3. The Saturday was the bouldering comp, and being a close
second in the overall rankings behind the ever strong European bouldering
champion Dom Burns, I was in with a good chance of taking the title. In the
qualifiers I climbed ok, but not at my best and came away wit 6 tops in 7
attemps, but was within 1 move of another. This meant I qualified for the final
in 4<sup>th</sup> place. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The finals were really
good. Isolation actually had places to warm up, we weren’t in there for too
long, and the problems actually looked really good! After observation, I was
out early but from the speed people were coming back into isolation I knew I
had to flash the problem to be up there and in with a chance. It was my turn to
go, but a foot slip caused me to fall on my first attempt. I got back on, and
despite taking a monster swing on the finishing jug I held it, and had topped
the problem second go. The next problem was harder for me, with a long move
from a sloper to a gaston which I couldn’t reach from the foothold, meaning the
move became a full footless crucifix between the two. I didn’t manage this
problem, and I didn’t even get the bonus so I was behind going into the last
problem. The last problem started with powerful moves in a roof, into a long
press and crimp moves on the headwall. I knew this problem would suit me, and
when I came out I knew I could do it. I stepped out, read the problem and
climbed it first go. I was slightly disappointed, as the problem felt
relatively easy and I knew it would not be enough to put me in a better
position, but I finished this comp in 4<sup>th</sup>, and the overall series in
2<sup>nd</sup>! I’m really happy with this for my first year in Youth A, and
will certainly be back next year to challenge for the title. Off of this
performance, I was selected to compete at the final bouldering EYC of the year
in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Laval</st1:city></st1:place> in
October, which will be a great comp! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Photo credit Peter Wuensche</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day was the lead comp,
and after coming 2<sup>nd</sup> in the last youth open I was hoping to go one
better. My first qualifier was exactly my style, a vertical crimp-fest that
actually required some technique, which was nice to see in a comp. I topped it,
and was looking to repeating that on my second climb. Sadly, that was not the
case. I made every move hard, got every hold in the wrong place and came off
low down. Was it not for my first climb I could not have made the final, and
when I came down I expected just that. Fortunately, in a final of 6 I made it
in 5=. Not where I wanted to be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In isolation I didn’t feel
100%. In fact I felt terrible. I had a pump in my arms that I could feel, and
knew it would surface as soon as I pulled on to the final route. Isolation was
crap as well, warming up on vertical walls is never easy! I came out, climbed
as well as I could and tried hard, but the pump appeared, I went for a long
move and was off. It was better than I expected to do, as I finished 4<sup>th</sup>,
and were it not for my abysmal qualification I could have been higher, with count
back deciding against me. Not my best comp, bouldering the previous day and
just the fatigue from the whole trip really took it out of me, but I’m ready for
the next national comp, the BLCCs in <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>
in October. I will also be competing in seniors, so I look forward to seeing how
I compare! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Its been an amazing
summer, and I’d like to thank my Dad for putting up with me all trip and making
it happen. Also to Billy for coming and keeping us company! Cheers everyone,
and stay tuned for my next blog about the World Championships in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Canada</st1:place></st1:country-region>! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I will also be competing
in the final EYC of the year in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region>
this weekend, so follow me on Twitter for updates and to find out how to watch. <i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-32936785804143674282013-06-13T16:53:00.000-07:002013-06-14T17:00:01.291-07:00A lot of catching up to do<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It’s been a great few
months for me and my climbing, with new personal bests and excellent
competition results. Just recently, around 2 weeks ago, we had a GB team
training day at Westway in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:city>.
The day took the form of 3 routes, interlinked at half height, meaning we had 9
routes to attempt and get pumped on! The day was similar to the Northern
training day at Kendal, but the routes harder and pumpier on the steep Westway
competition wall. Compared to my clean sheet of tops at Kendal, Westway proved
hard for me, and a combination of onsight mistakes, foot slips and pump kept my
total as low as 6/9, not the best result but great training for the Ratho EYC
the following week. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Last week, I competed in
the first EYC of the year in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Edinburgh</st1:place></st1:city>.
No matter how often I go there the venue looks incredible, but the weather is
normally drab at best! This year was different, and the sun meant a new first
for Ratho; no down jacket all weekend! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Competition wise, I’m
disappointed with the result! I didn’t climb badly on either route, but then I
had no performance I was happy with either. The first climb tackled the most
technical section of the wall, a slightly overhanging flat panel on the old
comp wall, just my style, but everything just felt hard! The holds were smaller
than I thought, the moves much bigger and I ended up the most pumped I’ve ever
been on that angle, perhaps ever. When I went to shake out on a jug after the
climb, my left hand literally couldn’t grip, and all I could do was stroke the
hold in hope of grip returning for my next climb. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W2eywiv2kMayZ6REW7eM5Dl5lNrFkDLTSDiN2n6Lh8CP1WbUWWAzJ7Kpj33xS_cIk8rs8DTAwg7BdTi8HW60dVH1nl1e7sObUZud4OtyCg_VonvoozZ0kJD9rJEganBGh4xpAQWMVlk/s1600/eyc1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W2eywiv2kMayZ6REW7eM5Dl5lNrFkDLTSDiN2n6Lh8CP1WbUWWAzJ7Kpj33xS_cIk8rs8DTAwg7BdTi8HW60dVH1nl1e7sObUZud4OtyCg_VonvoozZ0kJD9rJEganBGh4xpAQWMVlk/s400/eyc1.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUpoO-iO4EledKpcQHUvIwFvvQX6-5ElbzXKmEMTY4nenFWmHKLS59h1ciSeQ3HxLMgw3VZDIj4QGSfKfqgIKkmXvCPu9u5G0by80mijxzwlZIiqqnFTj1ozNA7acT_nbdnaEu8FySitQ/s1600/eyc3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUpoO-iO4EledKpcQHUvIwFvvQX6-5ElbzXKmEMTY4nenFWmHKLS59h1ciSeQ3HxLMgw3VZDIj4QGSfKfqgIKkmXvCPu9u5G0by80mijxzwlZIiqqnFTj1ozNA7acT_nbdnaEu8FySitQ/s400/eyc3.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh02CqljrKAdAom09Cqj0V8xBjnWfdeVLq6sjLSLE80lpCNMs95rgc7HiXLHDMXJ3vVur3oNCd95Pgnhlnbhyn65qd1N3OxcCPlSqIjY1VfuZ0EjE_86dQJgToYTF9grUhyphenhyphenB0KDdDuO9x0/s1600/eyc4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh02CqljrKAdAom09Cqj0V8xBjnWfdeVLq6sjLSLE80lpCNMs95rgc7HiXLHDMXJ3vVur3oNCd95Pgnhlnbhyn65qd1N3OxcCPlSqIjY1VfuZ0EjE_86dQJgToYTF9grUhyphenhyphenB0KDdDuO9x0/s400/eyc4.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first route</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Pictures by Sandy Carr :) </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">http://tinyurl.com/myblqpm</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It didn’t. The route was
up the centre of the main wall, and was a long easy section of about 20 moves
to a “rest” (rests in EYCs consist of a greasy sloper caked in chalk), before a
hard section over a bulge to long moves on good holds in the roof. I felt fine
through the easy section, milked the rest and went for it through the bulge. I
felt strong, the moves felt fine, but suddenly, on an undercut and a crimp,
pump returned instantly and viciously. My grip was gone; I couldn’t even make
the plus point. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I ended up 21<sup>st</sup>.
This equals my worst result ever, and without making any major mistakes. It was
my first competition in a new category, with harder routes and better climbers,
and it’s clear to me after the weekend that I need to be doing more. I need to
do that extra circuit, take risks and suffer a bit if I’m to get to where I
want to be. It’s going to be painful, but the rewards will be worth it. Hell, I
may even enjoy it!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve also spent a fair bit
of time out on the rock recently, taking momentum from my spring trips and
making use of the drier weather. In bouldering, I have been continuing work on
my project, Jungle VIP (font 8A). This incredible granite roof line, put up by
my coach Mikey Cleverdon, is just 10 minutes from my house, making it the
perfect project. I made a breakthrough recently, doing the move and the
problem, but a small dab on the pad as I swung made, for me, the ascent invalid
and I didn’t take the tick. I know the dab did not make a difference to my
holding the move, but to spend this long on a project it would be frustrating
for me to not be entirely happy with the final ascent. It also gives me an
excuse to carry on climbing on this perfect move, so I can’t complain too much!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So Close! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In sport, I have also made
significant leaps; my project at Anstey’s Cove, the classic Tuppence, recently
succumbed to my continued attempts! The powerful and short 8b on Ferocity wall,
which I have been working for a few months now, should be my antistyle, but the
draw of the steep limestone within relatively easy reach was too much! The
climb is amazing, straight up the centre of the wall, every move hard. I fell
off every move while working it, and most quite a lot more than that. After
getting close a few days earlier, only being thwarted by a foot slip, I was
ready to do the climb. A couple of false starts later, coming off at the 3<sup>rd</sup>
move, I was up and past the crux, and setting up for the final hard moves. They
are all powerful and dynamic, and after the bendy, crimpy, madness of the crux
it is all so easy to come off. The last move is a killer, but I just caught it,
throwing a thumb on to keep- me on the wall. I’d done it! My first <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">UK</st1:place></st1:country-region> 8b, and my
first one solid at the grade. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve had a couple of other
competitions since my last post. I managed to win the Leading Ladder final in
Kendal, where I was the only one to top the 8a+ final route. I have also had
the second round of the Junior British Bouldering Championship in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Glasgow</st1:place></st1:city>, where after
jumping off before the top of an easy problem in qualification, I got through
to the final in second place. The finals were hard, and I was suffering from
flash pump on the first 2 climbs, topping neither. Fortunately the final
problem was a slab, and I topped out, bringing me to second behind an extremely
strong Dom Burns, European bouldering champion and monster. I am now in second
in the ranking overall, with the result between me and Dom most likely deciding
the winner!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">SYBCs, the last qualification problem</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Finally, some really great
news! After much discussion, I would like to announce my first real sponsor,
Paul Allen Wealth Management, a tremendously successful local business dealing
in the financial industry, specialising in the areas of Investment, Retirement
provision and Inheritance Tax Planning. This is a big step in my climbing, and
has been one of my goals for a while now, so to achieve this and with such a
great firm is fantastic. I look forward to working with them! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Only two weeks to go now
until exams are over, and the <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place> road trip
begins! Tres Pons, Terradettes, Oliana, Rodellar, Tarn, Ceuse, Loup, <st1:city w:st="on">Grenoble</st1:city>, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Innsbruck</st1:place></st1:city>,
Imst and Font all on the ticklist……. Its gunna be a good one! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-6613511384843128522013-04-17T12:43:00.000-07:002013-04-17T12:43:26.857-07:00Gorges Du Loup<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After 90 minutes sleep, a
copious amount or Red Bull and a long journey I stood underneath the imposing,
but rather wet, overhang of the Gorges Du Loup crag Deverse. After some amount
of searching, we came up with the 3 dry routes at the crag, a 7c, Mecanik
destruktiv komando, an 8a variation of this and a 12 move 8b to the right of
these. To begin I got on the 7c, falling off the 1<sup>st</sup> move once, then
missing a jug and falling higher up. It wasn’t going well, but I managed to
scrape my way up next go. I then tried the 8b, the aptly named New Power
Generation. It would be fair to say this 12 move route was my anti-style,
powerful, short, steep and pockety, but I set it as my goal for the crag and
set about working the moves. I quickly got them but linking proved a real challenge!
Great effort to Buster Martin, fellow team member, for cruising this! Tired and
somewhat deflated, I headed to the house in hope of a good nights sleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Warming up, top ropes were oldddd!</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Heading out the next day
perhaps more tired than the day before, the day did not treat me well. The wet
crag we visited sapped my psyche, and as with Deverse, the dry lines that were
available offered no inspiration, I tried an 8a+ that I flashed to the crux,
but, as I found later, this was not easily passable, as Ondra has dropped it on
his onsight, not a common occurrence! With little psyche, I spent the day
watching Monaco below, dreaming of what it would be like to be rich, and
climbed some easy slabs in my trainers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day, and the next
crag was a turnaround to how I felt like I should have been climbing. We went
to Mesa Verde, a less steep crag than Deverse and with some slightly more
inspiring lines. That was the main thing I was disappointed about at this area.
In most areas and in most crags there are at least a few lines that inspire me
to climb, but I found that this wasn’t necessarily the case here. I was
climbing for the wrong reasons, for the grade or because someone else had done
it, not because I wanted to climb the route for the moves or the experience. I
had come on the trip with the goal of an 8b, whereas I should have just been
climbing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mesa Verde treated me
well, and I was back to some sort of form. To begin the day I dropped the top
of a bouldery 7c on the onsight, and thought the day might go the way of the
others before it, but I did the climb next go, and after a short rest onsighted
Petit Poucet, a crimpy and pumpy 7c+, my first onsight of the grade! Happy, and
after beta I flashed the classic 8a of the crag, Arrowhead. This was much
better climbing, and my claim to fame is that Daniel Woods dropped this on his
onsight ;) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We returned to the crag
the next day, and I set to work on the bouldery extension to Petit Poucet. The
guides are confusing, with each topo saying different names for the same line,
but we settled on L’Ogre, possibly 8b or 8a+. The climb starts up Petit, to the
rest before the top, and then continues out left to a boulder problem which for
me utilised a 3 finger quarter pad undercut in the roof, to be used for the
crux slap around the lip. It was a real fight, and not knowing the top section
well and getting there pumped almost proved fatal, but I turned the lip and
slapped my way up the headwall, searching for holds as I went. The grade, I’m
not entirely sure! It felt harder than <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Pet</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Cemetery</st1:placetype></st1:place>,
and that was last year, hopefully I’ve got a lot stronger since then! The
breakdown also looks a lot harder, Pet is a 7b+ into and ok rest, then a
V4/5/6/7(?) boulder problem. L’Ogre is a 7c+ into a good rest, before a long
boulder problem which feels a lot harder than the one on Pet. Who knows, but it
defiantly felt easier than Tuppence seems to be! I’ll plump for 8a+/8b, nice
and indecisive! More experience needed I feel. I then did the 8a+ right hand
start to the extension, onsighting the bottom section putting the draws in. Definitely
easier but still hard! Effort again to Buster for getting these! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">L'Ogre 8b? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After a couple of
successful days, it was time for a rest day, so we played a few games of tennis
and visited a little fort town to pass the time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day was back at
Deverse, still wet and demotivating, but there were routes to be climbed so I
got on! After warming up on the 7c I reworked the moves on New Power and it
definitely felt doable. After a rest, I got to the last of the hardest moves,
but there were still droppable moves above. This continued for a couple of
goes, but I could feel my power begin to drop significantly so stopped trying
it, vowing to return the following final day. Jonny White cruised this, looking
super strong and composed. Ellis also put in a good effort, getting up this a
few days earlier! Seems to be a good first 8b, would it be a good second? I
jumped on Super Mekanik, the 8a variation to the 7c and to my surprise got it
in a couple of goes! This made the day more worthwhile, an psyched to return
and get up the route we headed off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Unfortunately I didn’t get
my chance to return, and due to others not wanting to visit Deverse due to the
wetness we headed back to Mesa Verde. I spent the day chilling in a hammock,
did another 8a extension to Petit Poucet and onsighted the last of the lower
7s, and it was time to go.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A successful, if not the
most inspiring, trip. My first major comp of the year is the first EYC in Ratho
in June. After this year’s assessment day, I have been selected for all
competitions this year, including the European Championships in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Austria</st1:country-region> and the World Championships in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Canada</st1:place></st1:country-region> this
summer. Really excited for the year ahead and all the comps! As it's my GCSE exam year, we're planning to do a roadtrip across Northern Spain and France, before finishing in Austria for the European championships. Safe to say I'm excited! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-44691085080930563562013-03-08T16:07:00.000-08:002013-03-08T16:07:21.275-08:00The Rain in Spain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This half term I took the
journey to El Chorro in the Andalucía <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">province</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Spain</st1:placename></st1:place>,
to climb in the famous gorge and surrounding area. Armed with a bulging tick
list and overflowing psyche we arrived at the villa to dusty ground and high
suns. The crags lie between the many orange and lemon plantations of the area,
and with such scenery and the rock we’d seen on our journey I was ready to get
out on rock again! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the first day we
climbed at Poema de Roca at the Frontales sector, a massive scoop out of the
side of a towering limestone cliff. The steep climbing features mixed climbing
on steep tufas, juggy pockets and vertical crimps, and the mix of style suited
me well for a first day back on rock. I blindly jumped on what I can only assume
is the one jamming crack in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region></st1:place>,
reaching the top of the 6b+ confused.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next route I got on
was a classic steep 7b that had been recommended to me, La villa strangiato<b>. </b>A shallow slab lead to 4 hard moves
and then fun juggy climbing on undercuts to the chain in the middle of the
roof. Great fun! There was more of this style to follow as I jumped on the
again classic roof climb adjacent to it. Eye of the Storm, 7c is described as
“Disorientating climbing” and it certainly lived up to its reputation. The climb
takes a juggy line through a roof groove, and the many twists and turns in the
roof gave great moves! I reached the top, pumped and psyched and happy to be
back at my previous level of last years trip to Ceuse within the first day.
Great effort to Billy, who fell off the last move on his first go, and di it
second go! I jumped on a pumpy 7b+ and
climbed a classic 7a afterwards to end the day. A great first day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day and we drove
to the classic crag of Desplomilandia outside of the town, and I was keen to
onsight some of the classics at El Triangulo. After warming up on a 6c+ the
dirtiest, sharpest 7a I’ve climbed, I rested and wanted to try one of the 2 8as
of the crag. With no expectation I set off up the route, putting the clips in
as I went. With a massive effort, power screams and probably a bit of luck with
beta, I was at a small undercut only moves away from the crack above. I reached
out left to a small crimp, went over the top to a pinch, then moved out to a
good sidepull. Then disaster, my right foot opposing the sidepull popped and I
peeled off! Frustrated about the result but happy with my effort it was to my
despair I found the next hold was a sinker jug, and the next, and the next, all
the way to the chains! Cursing myself, I lowered to the ground, rested and set
off again. My foot stuck, my hand hit the jug, I shook out and climbed the
route to the chains, my first 8a in almost a year and very nearly my first 8a
onsight! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/577352_472963679431576_450931458_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" aria-busy="false" aria-describedby="fbPhotosSnowliftCaption" border="0" class="spotlight" height="265" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/577352_472963679431576_450931458_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I climbed a hard 7b while
waiting to try my main goal for the day, a flash attempt on the classic 8a of
the crag, Mar de Ortegas<b>.</b> The
central line takes in the tallest section of the wall and a mixture of tufas
and small pockets. I collected the beta I could and while Mark abbed off the
top to get pictures of the climb I gave it a go. The first section climbed
really nicely and I reached the easier upper section on better holds relatively
fresh. The climbing was amazing and before I knew it I was clipping into the
chains of my first 8a flash! A great feeling and it put me in the mood for more
hard climbing on the trip. Then the rain came……………………….. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The dry weather we had
experienced on the first days was gone and from Monday night it rained
continuously for the next day and night. Thought of climbing were abandoned and
we spent the day watching climbing films to get psyched for when (we hoped) the
rain would stop!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day and the rain
had stopped, and despite the condition of some of the crags we took the
absolutely massive walk to the star crag of the area, Makinodromo. We could see
that it was likely wet but we were too far into the walk to turn back. Sure
enough, we got there and the seepage from the day’s rain was draining straight
through the tufa draped wall and falling like rain to the ground below. Not a climbing
day… After chilling out for a while we walked back down to the path below and
took on the Kings Walkway, something I had been dreading for the whole trip.
Despite having a shiny new Via Ferrata kit I had to walk using slings, always
plan ahead and don’t leave it at the villa! The walk, despite my fears, was
amazing, one of the best things I did on the whole trip and I was a lot more
comfortable on it that I expected, and ended up doing a pullup off one of the
foot rungs near the end of the route. I would thoroughly recommend doing it if
you have the chance! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We actually managed to
find some dry climbing right at the end of the gorge, and after finishing we
climbed all the way through til dark, and I climbed and amazing vertical 7a+
and tried an amazing vertical 8a on tiny crimps with some amazing moves.
Definitely something worth going back for!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the next day we planned
to return to Poema de Roca, but after doing many of the climbs there on the
first day Billy and I opted for trying Amptrax, a long 6a multi-pitch route
tackling the tallest section of the cliff. I was very nervous having not
climbed a multi-pitch before, and after learning how to set up a stance at the
first stance we climbed the amazing route. It really was a great climb and an incredible
experience and we abbed off from the top happy and satisfied. We joined the
others in the cave for the end of the day and I climbed a fun 7a and a pumpy 7b
to end the day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the last day of the
trip, another wet day, we were determined to climb and headed back to
Desplomilandia, to another supposedly dry in the rain sector. It unsurprisingly
wasn’t dry for the most part and I managed to climb a 5+ and a hard 7b in the
first part of the day, and tried the 8a extension to find puddles in holds and water
running down my arm. With no other dry routes to climb, I chilled for the rest
day and belayed people putting in great efforts on the 7b! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/69505_10151320995023730_1970435446_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" aria-busy="false" aria-describedby="fbPhotosSnowliftCaption" border="0" class="spotlight" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/69505_10151320995023730_1970435446_n.jpg" style="height: 582px; width: 408px;" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Good effort to everyone on
the trip, everyone climbed well and many got personal bests, thanks for making
it a sick trip! </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was an amazing trip,
such great fun! I’m currently on the train for CWIF in <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>
this weekend, hopeful for a good result! </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cheers! <b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-34607095167833169572013-02-26T14:39:00.001-08:002013-02-26T14:39:10.661-08:00Rocfest 2013<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A few weeks ago we travelled
to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Manchester</st1:place></st1:city>
for the annual Rocfest bouldering competition at the Rockover bouldering wall. The
wall is pretty nice, looks like a good training facility, with rings and a
campus board. The qualifiers were packed, so many people and lots of the
problems were long traverses that often blocked other lines, so it was
difficult to get on a lot of the time. I climbed badly in the qualifiers, but
with some running around with very little time left on the clock I made it
through to the finals in 2<sup>nd</sup> place. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Isolation went fine and I
felt a bit stronger in the warm up, although still not as good as I’ve felt
recently. The crowd was big and psyched, and the music was great. In
observation all the problems looked good and all pretty flashable, bar maybe
the last one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I knew the first 2 out had
topped problem 1 first go, and I could hear the crowd cheering. It was me out
next, and I felt surprisingly calm. I topped pretty easily, it wasn’t as hard
as it looked, but I was still happy to have got the first one out of the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The second problem I was
pretty stupid on. During observation I discounted completely a big volume at
the start, and only after a go of falling off the last move did I think to ask
if it was in or not. Obviously the answer was yes, a silly mistake. Something
to remember for next time! Using this volume I did the first move much more
easily and carried on to what I presumed was the crux dyno to the finishing
hold. I set up and sprung upwards to the hold, latching it with my right hand.
2<sup>nd</sup> go, better. After the first qualifier topped 3<sup>rd</sup> go,
this put me in 1<sup>st</sup> place going into the final problem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This one was much harder,
especially the crux slap to a small crimp off of a big sloper. I felt very
close to this move, but after 30 qualifying problems and a long day, my
forearms were flash pumping from the first move and my fingers were uncurling
by the time I got to the move. I had failed to top, and as noone else had
topped this climb it meant the final climber had to top to win. I was a
stressful 4 minutes as he tried again and again. He hit the stopper move as the
rest of us had and fared in the same way. His 4 minutes were up, down he came,
I had won.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/kuIyB1KyGdo?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Nice little clip of me topping problem 2 on this!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was pleased with how
this comp ended up, especially as I wasn’t climbing at my best. My power has
improved a lot over the last month or so, and I had one of my best ever bouldering
sessions a week before the CWIF on Saturday! I have just returned from a very
wet but amazing week in El Chorro, blog to follow soon!<br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-45505075186833989912013-01-03T11:35:00.000-08:002013-01-03T11:35:27.143-08:00Looking Back and Looking Forward <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As 2012 draws to (a very
wet!) close I thought I would take a look back over the year, a forward into
next year.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">2012 was my first year in
the GB team, and my first year of international competition, and was certainly
an eye opener. It didn’t start too well with a poor performance at the team
assessment day in March meaning I wasn’t selected for some of the first EYCs
but I was psyched for the first one at Ratho and eager to show what I was
capable of!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I finished 11<sup>th</sup>,
missing out on the final by one place and just a plus point. Frustrating and
pleasing at the same time, and because of my poor performance at the assessment
day I would have to wait until Imst in August to try and improve. This was of
course a setback, but that, along with my abysmal climbing at the assessment
day I believe pushed me on in my training in general, and helped me to climb
how I did in future competitions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I spent the next two
months alternating between the Barn and High Sports working on my endurance.
Lap after lap on the 16 metre wall at High Sports, and lap after lap on the 45
degree board at the Barn! I do like being pumped……..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">At the beginning of the summer
holidays I went to Ceuse for 10 days, about the best crag in the world and an
ideal training venue. The horrendous walk in and the long routes were perfect for
building up my endurance. I had a great time there, and it was nice to be at a
crag with so many great climbers. Inspiring stuff and I managed my hardest
onsight of 7c+ there as well. We came straight back to Ratho for the Youth
Open. The training and Ceuse had paid off, I won. My first win at National
level and it felt good! It also meant I was selected for the European
championships in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place>
in November and I travelled to Imst the following weekend feeling confident.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Imst was my second EYC and
I was keen to improve on my 11<sup>th</sup> place at Ratho. The first qualifier
went well finishing in joint 4<sup>th</sup> so I just needed a good climb on
the second qualifier to be in the final. It didn’t go well and I was 7<sup>th</sup>
when I fell with lots of good climbers still to go. A stressful wait began
which I did not enjoy and I ended up 16<sup>th</sup> on the route, but in the
end just enough to make the final. I was great to have made the final but the
stress and worry meant I hadn’t warmed down properly and drunk anything so,
despite and good meal and an early bed, I didn’t feel quite as good as I could
have the next day. This showed in the final, getting pumped early and then
missing a hold meant I didn’t improve on my qualifying position and remained
tenth. A big lesson for the future, but an improvement on Ratho, but could
still do better……………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Next comp was the BLCC’s
at Ratho., I went there planning to win, but I’m still making small errors that
are costly. I finished a disappointing 5<sup>th</sup>, but it was enough for
selection for the final EYC at Kranj at the end of November.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next big competition
was the first ever European Championships held in Gemozac in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place>. My dad and I will always
remember this weekend as it was very emotional for both of us. As we were
travelling out we heard that my Grandpa had died suddenly in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Spain</st1:place></st1:country-region> which was
a shock, but in a strange way relieved the pressure on me and despite the
circumstances I felt relaxed when I came out to climb. They were running the
routes simultaneously so I climbed my
hardest route first and was moving well until my foot popped, but I had finished
tenth on the route so knew that a top on the second route would be enough. The
route went well and I felt solid the whole way, clipping the chains to lots of
noise from the GB support and was in the final in 8<sup>th</sup> place. This
time I warmed down properly, drank plenty of fluids and had a big bowl of pasta
before an early night and woke up feeling fresh and ready! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The final looked like it
suited me and the 6 minutes observation was spent reading and refining the
sequence. The route started well and I moved through the opening sequences
easily. Then it went wrong. I didn’t clip from where I should have and moved to
a point where it was difficult to clip from. Despite numerous attempts, I just
couldn’t get the clip in and eventually resorted to lifting the clip with my
foot, which I knew wasn’t allowed, and was called off the route. I was bitterly
disappointed as, yet again, a mistake had cost me. I felt sure I could have
gone on but in the end I finished 7<sup>th</sup>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The last EYC of the year
was at Kranj in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Slovenia</st1:country-region></st1:place>
and I really wanted to finish on a high. My Dad surprised me by turning up at the
hotel on Friday, and as it was his birthday on the Saturday I was keen for a
good result. Alas, it wasn’t to be. Yet again small errors cost me and I
finished in my worst position of the year in 21<sup>st</sup><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The aim for next year is
less mistakes…………………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Other highlights of the
Year included climbing The Cider Soak, 8a and then Pet Cemetery, 8a+ both before
my 15 birthday, and Raindogs 8a at Malham and winning the seniors at the Irish
Lead Climbing Championships.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Next year has, in effect
already begun, with the December Youth Open, at Awesome walls <st1:place w:st="on">Liverpool</st1:place>,
and the first round of the BBC’s held the next day and the Climbing Hanger.
These events form part of the GB team selection for next year and everyone move
up to next years categories. I was moving up to Youth A, where I would join
Buster Martin, Luke Dawson, and Conner Byrne and was keen and make my mark in
another very strong category. The qualifiers went well, and I topped the first
route, and finished 2<sup>nd</sup> on route two, falling from a horrible slopey
volume. This meant I went into the final in 2<sup>nd</sup> behind Buster. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The final was steep and
long, but I climbed badly in the lower half, my feet weren’t working for me and
I cut loose twice before the crux traverse. I was pumped. A good heel I could
sit on a bit gave me a lot back, and the traverse was really enjoyable. Then
the crux. As in Kranj, I ignored the beta I had scoped from the ground, opting
for what felt right. Wrong again. The heel did not allow me enough reach, and
my pumped arms gave up as I tried to turn my foot for my original beta. Off backwards!
Buster went on to top the route, one of the best efforts I’ve seen, and the
first power screams of his I’ve heard! I ended up 2<sup>nd</sup>, and I’m
reasonably happy with that for my first competition in Youth A, here’s to a
good next year! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/T3dgBOQCLoI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day was the first
round of the 2013 BBC’s. The format had been changed and it is now over a
number of rounds, a nice addition, although they could have not had 2 of the
rounds in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Scotland</st1:place></st1:country-region>,
worse than lead! I went to the wall happy with the weekend, and I was extremely
relaxed during the qualifiers. I was very surprised by how I did in the
qualifiers, and when I was doing problems the strong guys were falling on I was
stunned! I ended up qualifying in 2<sup>nd</sup>, how I have no idea!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The finals looked good but
hard. The first was an amazing slab, which I knew no one before me had even
done the first move, something that frustrated me about the final. It was not
full isolation and we could speak to each other when we returned, on this
occasion it helped me as it took all pressure off, but a format as in world
cups would work better, or as with the BBCs last year. I spent around 7 goes
sorting out the first move, but then with 40 seconds on the clock did the move
with a weird press. I had no chalk so had to move quickly, a thin film of sweat
building as I rested. I got to the bonus, slipping off but managed to hold it
and move to the undercut before the finishing hold. The foot was hard to see
and as I moved across to put it on the hold I missed, slid down and was off! Frustrating
but as only one other had reached the bonus it put me in a strong position. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then the problems got
really hard. One person, Hamish Pokotar, a Briston TCA wad, topped it, but the
rest of us were stopped just above the bonus. Again on the 3<sup>rd</sup> problem,
it was very hard and none of us could top. I ended up being 2<sup>nd</sup>,
after getting all the bonuses and behind Hamish by that one top. Not bad
considering bouldering isn’t my main discipline! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I ended up selected for
the GB Lead and bouldering teams for 2013, a great result for my first
competitions in Youth A! Next year is
going to be a good year……..<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy Climbing,</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex</span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-28420365304418200772012-11-14T10:35:00.001-08:002012-11-14T12:04:26.996-08:00European Championships<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Last weekend was a
competition that was significant for me not only in my performance but also in
my emotions. On Wednesday night, the eve of our travelling to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place>, I was told my granddad had
died suddenly walking in the Spanish mountains. It was a real shock for me, we
were close and the news hit me hard, but I knew exactly what I was climbing
for. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The <st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city>
region at this time of year is just like <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">England</st1:country-region></st1:place>, very wet! I tried to stay
hydrated through Friday, as in previous Europeans I’ve always struggled with
fluids and it seemed to pay off. I woke up late Saturday morning feeling light
and strong and had a leisurely breakfast of bread and cheese. As we were
climbing in the afternoon, we went to the wall slightly early to watch the
Youth As and Juniors, as well as scope out the warming up area and any routes
that were potentially ours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As we predicted, we had
the same routes as the Junior girls. I was on last for the first route, but
because the routes were run simultaneously and I was around halfway through on
route 2 I would be on that first. Route 2 was a blue route going up the longest
part of the wall, a variable angle section ranging from vertical to around 20</span>°
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">off. It was perfect for me, and despite a
rushed start from an unexpectedly low fall by the competitor before me, I was
off and moving well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtR3LesNuWiWYePF7SilfoFfflJzHGxVv1nK0knUgnGPxF8WFkH6TmPzr0-cAxs_i2xtwAFaVxhyN65f1_kCBcVB6V4nd-70wHAG4OVmqwD5eYz8_mX-c9gbCj5XqCwFK2gNeNIENLTm0/s1600/IMG_9595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtR3LesNuWiWYePF7SilfoFfflJzHGxVv1nK0knUgnGPxF8WFkH6TmPzr0-cAxs_i2xtwAFaVxhyN65f1_kCBcVB6V4nd-70wHAG4OVmqwD5eYz8_mX-c9gbCj5XqCwFK2gNeNIENLTm0/s400/IMG_9595.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first section was
reasonably steady, small holds but they were all positive, and the same for the
middle. The top was thin pockets, so accuracy was key on this section. I
climbed well, feet moving intuitively and not getting too pumped, and I was
soon past a long go-again off a good pinch that many came off, with the help of
a high foot. I swapped feet, and in my mind I was 100% sure I reached the hold
just below the lip, a small pinch and was moving off that when my foot slipped
off a slopey-topped slot. The video tells a different story, and despite the
certainty in my mind (to the extent remembering the feeling of the hold and the
dynamics of the next move), I had got to the hold before that. Still, it placed
me well but I had to get high on route 1 (my route 2) to be sure of a place in
the final. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Route 2 was short, around
12m, all technical and balancey on small holds. Perfect! Around 5 or 6 had
topped before me and I was last on the route, bad for the friction on a route
that had already been described as greasy. I set off and it felt fine, turned
the lip of the steep section onto the final headwall and had a small shake on a
pair of reasonable holds by the second to last clips. The end was in sight,
with just one move to a sloper left to stick to be above the highpoint of
anyone who hadn’t topped. I stuck it, made a move round a corner, clipped, next
hold and I topped! I knew this put me in a pretty good position in terms of
qualifying and i was very happy, I think my celebration showed that! I was
interviewed afterwards, and to be honest I have no idea how that went, but it
may have been rubbish! I was in the final in 8<sup>th</sup>, already an
improvement on previous EYCs. Now to crush in the final. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ-Eb73DkplcEprwgNpApX8fTnJl-IuHqHPfqmjl7Fq702fppLA41U-Tcpi5Q7im5zFifzWCIDM8v7B-DEhT6v8KkPQu25X0F2-1cSCr5VDuja9tj7HnCBVoQGZkupbN_bFzBjUTw9A4/s1600/route+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ-Eb73DkplcEprwgNpApX8fTnJl-IuHqHPfqmjl7Fq702fppLA41U-Tcpi5Q7im5zFifzWCIDM8v7B-DEhT6v8KkPQu25X0F2-1cSCr5VDuja9tj7HnCBVoQGZkupbN_bFzBjUTw9A4/s400/route+2.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We went back to the hotel
early to eat and get a good nights sleep, missing the Junior and A finals which
I was quite disappointed about, the opening ceremony we stayed for was very
spectacular! I was in bed early, around 10 and woke easily as 7 the next
morning, feeling light and strong. This was very different to Imst, there I
woke feeling stiff and tired. This, I believe, is down to my warm down after
route 2 the previous day. I did a full warm down immediately after my route,
whereas in Imst I delayed it a lot, even then not doing a full warm down. Warming
up I felt good, though due to the small area I had I couldn’t go for a run and
I’d forgotten my skipping rope! Despite this I was feeling strong, ready for
anything the final could be. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We went out to
observation, and had 6 minutes to view the route to determine a sequence. It
looked reasonably straight forward, a powerful start into a close to vertical
array of arêtes and rockovers. It looked perfect for me, and as the first
climbers began I did the final stages of my warm up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I felt ready, secure,
focussed and calm when I left isolation, dropped my jacket to the ground and
stepped onto the wall, no hesitation. The first moves were fine, bar a match
where I expected to go to a different hold. A match on the tufa-like volume in
the roof was hard, and required a big flag to stop the swing. The next section
through small holds on volumes suited me well, with many heel hooks to keep the
weight off my fingers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qCYBR9w6Ut9SfnRIRHVeMK3tB_9sg8dn_eIe4hMvN9s-iFegU98OvAlnT8RPwY05T1sGj_qW91yPEN2vixNgLE487rvKXKqR2zYKmlISdtIhYvx-rap5mlkGb4TbPFyJnQ_2M9MGxWc/s1600/final.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qCYBR9w6Ut9SfnRIRHVeMK3tB_9sg8dn_eIe4hMvN9s-iFegU98OvAlnT8RPwY05T1sGj_qW91yPEN2vixNgLE487rvKXKqR2zYKmlISdtIhYvx-rap5mlkGb4TbPFyJnQ_2M9MGxWc/s400/final.JPG" width="331" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I came to a slopey
sidepull with a good heel, but instead of clipping as I should, the next hold
looked positive and I moved to that instead. The hold was a small slot, worse
than I expected, so I moved again to a big sloper. Looking back, this was my
final chance to clip, but instead I moved off again. The move was long but I
was still feeling strong and I held the small crimp ok. Again I looked at the
clip and decided to move to the next hold. It was at that point I knew it was
too late. I couldn’t reach the clip. I shook once, climbed down, attempted to
clip but I couldn’t, I was too high! Again I went back up and put a heel on to
steady myself, catching the clip with my foot as I did. I noticed this, and
desperation meant I tried to guide the draw up with my foot. This is against
the rules, but I was above the clip be such an amount where I couldn’t even
reach the top of the draw. The foot lift was unsuccessful and that was it then,
I climbed up and down twice more in vain attempts to clip before I was called
off the route. The foot lift had been seen and the judges had decided it was
enough to call me up on. I was scored to the hold before where I’d got to,
putting me in 3<sup>rd</sup> when I came off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> The move to the hold I was scored to proved
difficult and 2 people dropping it going for the hold, and 1 reaching the hold
but not moving off, who I beat on time. This meant I was placed in 7<sup>th</sup>
overall. This was frustrating, I was reasonably fresh when I got to the next
hold, and could easily have made the next move, which alone would have placed
me in 6<sup>th</sup>. Of course, in the grand scheme of things 7<sup>th</sup>
is amazing, but its just the niggling feeling that could have gone better, one
day I’ll have a comp where I make no mistakes, lets hope its Kranj!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This weekend was all about
my Granddad, and he would have been ecstatic with my placing, so I am too,
especially give the circumstances! <st1:country-region w:st="on">Wales</st1:country-region>
blog next, <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ireland</st1:place></st1:country-region>
next week for Irish champs and Kranj the week after that! PSYCHED!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-36096777539331367392012-10-26T07:43:00.003-07:002012-10-26T07:43:24.620-07:00BLCCs 2012 <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Another long journey to <st1:city w:st="on">Edinburgh</st1:city> last weekend almost ended in disaster when we
very nearly missed the <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Edinburgh</st1:place></st1:city>
stop. I’m not sure how it happened considering we were both awake but we packed
up and made it off just in time! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We were in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Edinburgh</st1:place></st1:city> for the British
Lead Climbing Championship, a competition that I’ve always enjoyed, as the
routes are always fun and the wall is as always incredible. This year was no
exception, and with the Hangar wall at its steepest our first route climbed its
left arête. It looked fine until the edge of the roof, where there was a long
powerful slap around the arête, to a good hold. I was up 3<sup>rd</sup>, and
with one person getting to the slap I set off. I felt fine, had a quick shake
on a good hold, and then moved into the roof section. The holds were good but
the slap looked long, so I put a heel underneath an undercut spike. I was
slapping reasonably statically around the lip, but when I went for a tick mark
on the lip there was no hold, just more wall! I was stretched out and committed
by that point, and without a left hand to fall back on my heel popped and I was
off! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Turned out the tick mark I
slapped for was above the hold, a sequencing error! It was frustrating to fall
off barely pumped, especially since new beta found only a few after me rendered
the move pretty easy! I was annoyed but it was on to the next route, a slabby,
balancey, horror fest, perfect! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was on late, and by me
only one had topped the route. I moved through the first section well, a small
mistake with a clip but I was soon nearing the final key rockover. I love any
slab route in a competition, and this was no exception, I made the rockover
stick and was soon on a slopey crimp and a small but positive feature. I felt
in balance and control, and made the final move stick. I clipped the chains and
lowered to the ground. I was in the final, qualifying in 4<sup>th</sup> place.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After checking the time of
isolation, I headed to the café for a snack before the wait, and came down just
before 2.30. I was packing up my stuff and people kept asking me if I was meant
to be in isolation. Confused and worried, I jogged to the isolation area and
made it in just in time! I had been told isolation closed at 3, but it had in
fact closed at 2.30. I was relieved I mad it in only just in time, but this
also added to the stress of the day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My warm up was good, and I
was soon walking down the tunnel to the final waiting area. I was 3<sup>rd</sup>
out, but had no idea where the others had got to, bar a slowly swinging clip at
around half height. Walking out I got a cold feeling in my hands, like they
were about to go numb on the route. My warm up had been good, and I pushed it
out of my mind, but I was slightly distracted. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I read the route and set
off. It was quite powerful, but I felt fine moving through a big pinch to a
sloper and an undercut. The move looked long so I put a heel on the sloper, in
the process dropping my foot off the other foothold. This put me too low on the
holds, meaning only a dynamic move would allow me to reach the pinch target. I
came back down, had a quick shake, as by this point I was very pumped, and
tried again. The same thing happened once again. I was very pumped by this
point, and had to go for the move. I went, grabbed the hold and very nearly
stuck it, but I was off all the same. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Everyone else had used a
low foot, but Billy and had opted for the high heel, and it spat us both off.
It was irritating to come off two routes due to sequencing errors, but it was a
learning curve. I will defiantly look at having multiple sequences for all crux
moves, and hopefully this won’t happen again. I am also working on my power, as
for the first time I was failing not because of pump, but the moves themselves.
I have been working endurance almost exclusively since Imst, and while this has
offered good progress, my power has been letting me down lately. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I placed 5<sup>th</sup>
overall, but despite this I was selected for the final EYC in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Kranj</st1:city>, <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">Slovenia</st1:country></st1:place>.
Next comp is the European Championships in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Gemozac</st1:city>, <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">France</st1:country></st1:place>!
The event may be being webcast, but I’ll let you know nearer the time!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy climbing!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-14661725544811578582012-09-27T14:07:00.000-07:002012-09-27T14:07:33.741-07:00Training and Comps<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After a long summer of
comps and trips, its time to settle back into training for the rest of this
years comps. After identifying endurance as a weakness of mine, as soon as I
got back from Imst I began working hard to get the upper levels I need for European
competitions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Because of the general
shortness (in comparison to Europe that is) of the walls in the South West,
laps are essential to get the amount of pump required, so 6x4s (6 times up a
route, 4 times in a session) have been the main constituents of my sessions over
the last months. One thing I have noticed recently, my route climbing has
improved hugely in terms of my ability to hold on for longer without getting
pumped, but my bouldering has seemed to suffer slightly. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The Quay birthday comp showed
this well, and while I topped all of the routes (including an 8a set by Steve
McClure) first go, my bouldering was terrible, flashing just 2 of the 6
problems and only getting another 3<sup>rd</sup> go. Bouldering never has been
a massive strong point of mine, but the extra power on a hard route is always
nice! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next week was the last
round and the final of The Barn’s bouldering series. I was in second coming
into the round, with a large gap to 3<sup>rd</sup>, so I could afford to sit
back a bit and save my energy for the final. I got through in second, along
with Tom Newberry, Matt Parkinson and Jack Luckhurst in 1<sup>st </sup>, 3<sup>rd</sup>
and 4<sup>th</sup> respectively. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It started well, with me
topping the first slab on the flash, and only Tom did it second go. Things were
looking good, but on the second, more powerful but slightly easier problem, a
small dab was ruled too hard to be just a touch, and I could only manage 2<sup>nd</sup>
go because of this. This meant I was joint first with Tom going into the last
problem, a hard, powerful roof sequence. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">First go I missed a press into
a poor gaston on the roof, but Tom flashed the problem so my chances of winner
were gone completely. All I had to do left now was top the problem, and on my 3<sup>rd</sup>
and final attempt I very nearly did just that, touching the final hold before
my fingers gave up. Still a very good second, but my bouldering could defiantly
be improved.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Finally, I have decided
the winter project! Tuppence, 8b at Ansteys Cove. Initially with a slightly
easier, more indirect, start but then the full tick when I’ve got that. This is
the start of the 8b+ extension Tuppence Ha’ Penny, so could be a very good long
term goal! Time to get on it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Also, I finally have
twitter, so if you want regular updates on my climbing and training just follow
me @Alex_Waterhouse!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Psyched for BLCCs next
week and the European Championships in just over a month!! :D<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-87942743662472938542012-08-08T09:19:00.000-07:002012-08-08T09:19:58.484-07:00Imst EYC<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri;">All of the training, laps
and routes since Ratho had lead up to this weekend. It was my second European
Youth Cup and my first overseas competition and I was keen to do well. Imst is
an incredible place, not only with the world class wall but the area!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipArvkJcQc0ugd7-f-lCJ31k6H67A8FpjMW7v5ULl5cNLNBMsu5kWv_UV_AT-hK7oxWZ4I-uucoE9ISiNCN-5EBEZGmfn1h8Y5CFmdHMU_hkG-6GnVGPwLj6maOvtdzeLyiLlN5D7VYcI/s1600/imst+wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipArvkJcQc0ugd7-f-lCJ31k6H67A8FpjMW7v5ULl5cNLNBMsu5kWv_UV_AT-hK7oxWZ4I-uucoE9ISiNCN-5EBEZGmfn1h8Y5CFmdHMU_hkG-6GnVGPwLj6maOvtdzeLyiLlN5D7VYcI/s400/imst+wall.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We had the worst flight
time in history, so a 4.30 am start meant a 6 hour wait in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Munich</st1:place></st1:city> airport for the rest of the team to
arrive. It went as slowly as expected but eventually we were on the road and
quickly arrived at Imst. Friday was filled by the alpine coaster and swimming
and comp day arrived rapidly. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We woke up at 6:30 (5:30
in the <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">UK</st1:place></st1:country>)
to be down at the wall for its 7:30 opening. I got straight to warming up as I
was on 7<sup>th</sup> for route 1. The route looked like a sketchy vertical
section with lots or terrible holds and rockovers, into a pumpy overhung
section before a roof to finish. The demo made it look as hard as we thought
and people were soon on the route. 2 climbers had got just above the donut hold
before the roof before it was my turn to climb, and I set off up the vertical
wall. Climbs often look harder from closer up, but this was not one of those
times and the first few clips were far easier than I expected. I moved through
to a big move to a sloper, then a few more moves led to a slight rest where I
found I could sit on my heel. Unfortunately this made the clip extremely
awkward, and it took me at least 3 goes to get it in! This looks quite a short
amount of time in the video, but it felt like an age and I was very pumped by
the time I got it in! I shook and composed myself, then set off! The next moves
were ok, and I stuck a hold that a couple of climbers had come off on, then my
forearms finally lost all ability to function and I was off! A match on a
double scoring hold had put me in 3<sup>rd</sup> when I came off, and this did
not go down much during the day, leaving me in equal 4<sup>th</sup> with Ruben
Firnenburg! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/V19Ie0uETbM?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Route 2 was very pumpy,
with very few rests and with my endurance not being the best it was going to be
hard for me. Jim was on first and a hard long move around half way spat him
off, so it defiantly wasn’t easy! I got on and cruised through the first few
moves to a hard rockover which many had come off on, but got the wrong part of
the hold so had to readjust. I stayed on and was soon at the best rest on the
route. I shook and got ready, and tried to move onwards. I began to get very
pumped on a big volume, and made it a few more moves until I couldn’t go any
further, and came off going for a crimp, just a move before a good rest! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/WD-EeViNoFA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was a poor performance
which left me in 7<sup>th</sup> overall with over half the starters left to
climb. I couldn’t cope with another 11<sup>th</sup> so the stressful wait
began. I left and sat in the stands of the football club next to the wall, but
I could still see the top of my route! Fortunately I didn’t see many emerge so
stretched and listened to some music to try and make the time pass. I went back
with just 10 climbers to go and I was on the edge in 8<sup>th</sup> place.
Those 10 climbs were the most stressful of my life, and after the 7 of them I
was in 10<sup>th</sup>. Just one good performance from the final 3 could leave
me in 11<sup>th</sup> again and once again off the final. 1 off, then 2, then
3! I was relieved more than anything, but didn’t want to be too happy until I’d
seen the results. I was there, 10<sup>th</sup>! My first European final at my
first overseas competition and in such an amazing place too! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Now I had to prepare
myself for the final. I had never gone for a second day in competition, so I
wasn’t sure how to go about it, but a reasonably early bed and a good meal were
as good as I could manage. I woke up tired and slightly drained, and warming up
on routes I’d done previously I felt like I was getting pumped quickly and
lacked something. Not the best start but the isolation was short as I was firs
out so after observation I was on almost immediately. I climbed well in the
start but a long press to a gaston flustered me slightly as I couldn’t reach it
easily, so had to make a dynamic move to catch it with just a thumb before
putting the rest of my fingers on. It was hard but I was beginning to get
pumped (much earlier then I would have liked) so had to move on. I was getting
more and more pumped, and got a small shake on a large flat hold, before a long
move out left to a crimp, then a big move to a hold on a volume. I remember
seeing the hold while sequencing, but on the route I forgot it was there
completely so went for the volume itself. Needless to say it was terrible and I
was off. I was frustrated, partly at the fact I had got pumped so quickly but
mainly because I’d been stupid enough to miss a crucial hold. 1 other came off
in the same place as me, but as he was marginally quicker he finished ahead of
me so I remained in 10<sup>th</sup> place. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUoVDyM9NiqQU2b5jn0hV9lNpCmwKMThpD3P0y2NVyOdpugen2VGW6TZ6dNim9kGrIiTVtryt4RhV432oHietoKfjOPnfEmhDSX_J4M3M_ehkbc_s8uB1csv72PdTKoNVINuiqoih4mw/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUoVDyM9NiqQU2b5jn0hV9lNpCmwKMThpD3P0y2NVyOdpugen2VGW6TZ6dNim9kGrIiTVtryt4RhV432oHietoKfjOPnfEmhDSX_J4M3M_ehkbc_s8uB1csv72PdTKoNVINuiqoih4mw/s320/DSC_0051.JPG" width="212" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It all comes with
experience, and as it was my first final I was just glad to be there, anything
else was a bonus. This time it was not to be, but next time I want to not only
make the final but perform in that as well as I did in the qualifiers. Next
comp is the BLCCs in October, then the European Championships in November! Time
to train!!!!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-76290208222037267192012-07-31T10:25:00.000-07:002012-07-31T10:25:10.386-07:00The best crag in the world?<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Is Ceuse the best crag in
the world? Last week I went on the trip I’ve been waiting for and planning for
months now. Ceuse is the sport climbing mecca of the world and after months of
waiting I was finally going. We packed, squeezed and cut down on luggage to get
under the weight limit and at last we drove to Bristol, met with Chris at the
airport and eventually we were on the plane away from a cold Britain to a sunny
Marseille in over 30oc heat. It was defiantly a change in scenery and on the
drive to the campsite we discovered the sheer amount of rock that the French
have! We were driving past crags that would have been classics in the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region></st1:place>!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Ceuse!</div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After shopping in Gap
(with me winning the “who can see Ceuse first” game) we arrived at the campsite
and pitched up. Ceuse is famed for perfect rock, incredible scenery and amazing
routes but as well as that the walk-in is infamous amongst all who have
travelled there. It really is a slog, but it’s over eventually and when we got
there it did not disappoint. Cascade is an amazing sector, and put anywhere in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Britain</st1:place></st1:country-region> it
would be the best by far (all of the sectors at Ceuse would!). We began on a
6c+ called Medecine douce, famed for not being a warm up and that went ok,
onsighting it without too much trouble. I’m not sure what else I got on that
first morning, but I didn’t get up anything else that day. I probably did my
usual trick of trying too hard too soon, and I proved this theory by walking to
the other end of the crag to try L’ami de tout le monde, an 8b that Buster had
done a few days earlier. The whole plan for the trip had been to try lots of
onsights and flashes, then get on a hard project if I felt strong, but instead
I got on the hardest route I’ve ever tried on the first day after just doing a
6c+. Defiantly something to learn from this. I left without even 2 routes on my
first day, but if it was any consolation the walk down was much easier. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next days were more of
almost the same, with only a couple of 7bs being done, but I was improving
fast. Ceuse is defiantly a crag that takes some getting used to, with the
combination of the walk, the food (I had pasta and a sauce every day for the 8
days I was climbing) and the camping wearing you down before you’ve even begun
the classically pumpy routes. The last 2 days was when it really began for me.
I was trying a 7c called Galaxy at Berlin before my final rest day, getting
high before pumping out and taking a big fall, with my first ever inversion!
After doing the classic 7b Super Mickey in the morning, I got back on Galaxy,
taking a couple of goes to do the crux boulder problem. The problem has a pair
of high starting holds that are normally reached by building a small rock pile
but after many feeble attempts which only succeeded in a scattering of rocks I
kicked over my latest attempt and started off lower holds, making the start
much harder, but I sent the route first go. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">That is one thing I didn’t
like about Ceuse. Some routes rely on using the first bolt as aid or a large
stone pile to reach a good starting hold. If these routes were in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Britain</st1:place></st1:country-region> you’d
just have to find another way around it or tough really. It just seemed to take
away from some routes, especially if they are possible without the aid. Still,
at least these starts haven’t just been chipped, but left for someone who’s
good enough to do in the routes original state! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Buster wanted to have
another go on the classic hard 7b+ Blockage Violent, but I still wanted to go
for an onsight. I wanted to leave it but figured now was as good a time as any
so I went for the route. The moves felt solid and I was moving well, sticking
what I assumed at the time to be the crux. When I got to the less steep section
around the second to last clip I knew I had it in my sights and called down to
Buster that I could do it! The last moves felt fine and I clipped the chains,
relieved. This was possibly the highlight of the trip for me so far, I had
onsighted Blockage, maybe the classic of the crag. Buster sent the route next
go and we headed down after dark on his final day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day was my final
day at the crag and my dad was there so we walked up slightly later than usual.
I warmed up on Medecine douce then went for my next goal of the trip, an
onsight of Vagabond d’occient, another classic 7c the starts up a steep wall
onto a long headwall. I cruised up the juggy steep wall to the knee bar rest,
recovering for the crux that was sure to follow. The move cam quickly and I
launched, sticking it! I moved quickly through the next juggy section with some
very long moves before I was finally at the chains! My hardest onsight moving 2
grades in 24 hours, what has this place done to me! I then tried to flash a 7c+
called Le privilege du serpent, but fell high from the final move of the crux,
frustrating but we decided to move as the sun was beginning to hit the crag. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Vagabond, 7c onsight</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We moved to <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Berlin</st1:place></st1:state> to have a final
attempt at Mackach Walou, a 7c+ with one of the catchiest names at the crag.
I’d fallen high with Buster the previous day and was keen to get back on it. I
put the clips in and got the beta sorted, then went for it! It felt fine until
the top crux, where I began to get very pumped. I pulled through and slapped up
a rib, before getting my self onto a good jug that allowed me to clip, an then
a quick shake before the last few moves and clipping the chains. A great way to
end the trip! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ceuse is an amazing place
and I would go back any chance I get, and I could defiantly have done with
another week or two once I’d gotten into my stride. Oh well, next year here we
come!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was hoping the trip had
made me stronger, since as soon as I got back we were on the train to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Edinburgh</st1:place></st1:city> for the Youth
Open. This event makes up the selection for the European Youth Championships at
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Gemozac</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place> in November so I had to do
well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I arrived early at the
wall to find we had 2 qualifiers on the less steep old competition wall, and
our first looked very similar to the first qualifier in the Europeans earlier
in the year. I was 5<sup>th</sup> onto this climb and so didn’t have a massive
amount of beta for the top section, only the demo, who had fallen off on the
final move.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I moved quickly through
the first section, finding a move from an undercut to a poor hold on a volume the
hardest, as I decided to slap and move faster, rather than do an easier step up
that would have taken more out of me. I climbed easily to a rest above, and not
pumped I shook on the last good hold while eying up the final sequence. I tried
a cross through that felt hard, so reversed it and went to the further hold
with the other hand. Match on the volume then a long move to a good hold. Toe hook
by left hand, match, left foot high and then rock to a big sloper. The match to
this was a crux that many fell on, but I found it fine and matched. Little shake
then a cross over to a crimp. This is where it all went wrong. The beta from the
ground was to put a foot below the roof, or maybe a high heel. I opted for neither
of the two, and put a foot above the roof and jumped to the final jug. It felt
easy, until my right hand popped, and unpumped I swung from the final hold.
Frustrated I returned to the ground, but fortunately only one climber topped
the route so I got second on that route. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was on second to last on
my final qualifier which normally would be a good thing, but the route had
already been climbed by Youth A and the Juniors and they were complaining of
the grease even before we were on. Fortunatly we managed to get someone to
brush them, but that meant the route was easier for the first climbers in the
group and the route was hideously greasy when I got on it, and I could have quite
easily come off the easy slab section at the start, as others had. I made it
through to the greasy rest below the crux headwall. I made it over the roof and
a high heel made the move to a large volume easy and sitting on the heel gave
me a restbite from the climbing, I couldn’t quite reach on sequence, so touched
the base of the hold for a few seconds to gain the points. I returned to the
lower hold and went for a long cross over, which I stuck and matched. Now very
pumped I missed a crucial feature and went for the final hold, where I fell
with my fingers over the edge. I qualified for the final in 2<sup>nd</sup>
place. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Qualifier 2!</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Isolation was reasonably
short but extremely loud, and I was glad to be out when I was called. I was
warm and feeling strong but the wait in the final waiting area was long due to
a backlog, so I had to stay warm with pull ups on a beam. I was eventually
called and read the route quickly, and pulled on confidently. It felt easy to a
jug before a roof, and as I wasn’t very pumped I rested for a very short time
here. The new rules implemented this year mean that ties in the final are not
decided on countback to the qualification, but on time taken to reach the
highest point. I disagree massively with this rule, partly as it makes the
qualification pointless but also because someone who tops all 3 routes can be
beaten by someone who qualifies in 6<sup>th</sup> but gets up an easy final 1
second quicker. We have been training to climb quicker for months, and this
paid off this climb. I moved from the rest and used a sketchy toe hook to move
through the crux roof. I wasn’t too pumped and a final off balance move around
the roof was it for me. I very nearly held the hold but my fingers uncurled and
I was off. When I got down the judges were talking and I was told I had missed
the final clip. I was horrified, but my score still stood as the hold I had
moved off was possible to clip off. I was frustrated because I’d missed the
clip, but also because I hadn’t topped what was a reasonably easy final. Either
way, I got to the joint highest place on the route, but my speed training had
paid off, and I got to my <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">high point</st1:city></st1:place>
in almost 2 minutes quicker than Pete. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I had finally won, all the
training had paid off and I was selected for the European Championships. Not a
bad few weeks really, and Imst this weekend! </span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-55170975546549027712012-07-09T11:59:00.000-07:002012-07-09T12:01:05.659-07:00British Bouldering Championships 2012<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This weekend I took the
long trip up to <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place> to compete in the
British Bouldering Championships. I went up on the Saturday to check out the
wall and it looked sick, not too steep but technical, and the senior problems
looked awesome! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I came back on the Sunday
to a very muddy <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Graves</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Park</st1:placetype></st1:place>, with the section
below the warm up wall being a muddy puddle! The problems looked good, and as I
was in the second qualifying group I watched the first group to get a bit of
beta on the problems. They all looked doable to reasonable and after warming up
our group were called and I got straight in, being the first to climb. I got on
the second easiest problem to warm up, and got up it easily. The second problem
I went on was one of the hardest, and getting on it so soon could have been a
mistake on my part, falling off 3 times in reasonably quick succession. I was
frustrated, so forced myself to rest, but again I got on a grey problem and
fell on my first attempt, despite it being a reasonably easy. This attempt was
the difference between making the podium and not in this competition, and
although I dispatched it easily on my next attempt, the frustration was there
so I moved on to some easier problems to boost my confidence and bank some
points. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">My s<span style="background-color: white;">econd go at problem 6</span></span></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I got up the rest quite
easily (apart from a shaky top on a black press problem) and was drawing with
Pete for 3<sup>rd</sup> place, but he had all 3 attempts on the final problem
that I also had goes left on. Despite him coming off low down on his first 2
goes, he just stuck the bonus on his final attempt and that pushed my back a
place to 4<sup>th</sup>. I had a final attempt, in which I very nearly topped
it, but greasy hands and a small sequence error kept me off the finishing hold.
Very close, but extremely far.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Overall I placed 11<sup>th</sup>
(Against Youth A, B and C) and in Youth B I got 4<sup>th</sup>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Doesn’t matter, bouldering
isn’t real climbing anyway… ;)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">CEUSE next week!!! :D</span></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0Sheffield, South Yorkshire, UK53.381129 -1.47008553.3053575 -1.6280135 53.4569005 -1.3121565000000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-8578932213817784352012-06-22T16:30:00.004-07:002012-06-22T16:30:41.892-07:00A Rain Filled Weekend<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">This
weekend we made the long trip to Malham for a coaching event organised by the
MCofS and delivered by Robbie Philips. The drive was long and mainly wet, with
the rain giving us thoughts about where the nearest indoor wall was! We arrived
at the campsite at 9:30 on the Saturday to a rainy, grey sky and some psyched
climbers. Robbie reckoned the crag would be dry so we headed up and found the
entire wall was dry as a bone, and I think the only dry piece of rock in <st1:place w:st="on">Yorkshire</st1:place>!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">The conditions
were perfect, cold and dry and the rock felt really sticky warming up (and
that’s saying something for Malham!) and after doing a route or 2 and using the
Crusher Holds Orbs hanging from a bolt (great for warming up, will get a pair
to go to Ceuse with! <a href="http://crusherholds.co.uk/crusher-orb">http://crusherholds.co.uk/crusher-orb</a>
), I got on my project from last time at Malham, Raindogs!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">The (one
of many) classic of the crag, pure power endurance without a single easy move
or rest over its 24(?) move length has been a project that has taken me a while
to do, at least since I first wanted to do it, which was as soon as I heard
about it! It has not taken a long time in actual work on it, but it feels like
ages. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">I had one
quick go to remember the moves, feeling very strong from the start and only
resting on one sequencey move that I soon remembered and again to clip the
final clip that hadn’t been extended. I came down and after a bit of a rest
went for the route again. First moves felt strong, but a foot slip by the first
bolt put me back down again. Another rest, then off!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">I felt
strong and solid, climbing steadily to the “rest” and had a minishake and
chalked before moving on to my redpoint crux, a high step up to a polished
foothold from a sidepull and a sloper undercut pocket. I stuck it, bumped for
the sidepull, right hand to a sloper, feet up, go again for the final pinchy
sidepull, match and final foot change. Then the final move, a long bump to the
chain that many people fall off 20 times before they actually do the route.
Fortunately I stuck it and clipped the chains in relief, a good first day!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Grabbing the chains! DONE!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NFHO6-RljVp5fbH0VWfx9AYksGbweFkDQTLVr5X9kC1hGM9wQjdRAwBakl2dvRwBU8XxWpxxW3RnZRbJhCI1-N0EOKuBd1xzNX2XqFKg8xcYylgrmC9UZpgHMPJa9vYyCVHpuXaRMNw/s1600/IMG_4077+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NFHO6-RljVp5fbH0VWfx9AYksGbweFkDQTLVr5X9kC1hGM9wQjdRAwBakl2dvRwBU8XxWpxxW3RnZRbJhCI1-N0EOKuBd1xzNX2XqFKg8xcYylgrmC9UZpgHMPJa9vYyCVHpuXaRMNw/s640/IMG_4077+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Relieved!</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">The
second day I decided to focus on volume at mid 7 range in preparation for
Ceuse, and got some good onsights, second goes and a couple of failures! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">Ticklist:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Raindogs
8a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Free and
even easier 7a+ (Flash)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Just
Another Dead End Job 7a (Flash)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Rose
Coronary 7a (Second Go, numb fingers!!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Something
Stupid 7b (Onsight)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Bongo
Fury 7b (Second Go)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Rated PG
7a+ (Onsight)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">-Consenting
Adults 7a (Repeat to take the draws out, still polished and rubbish!!!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt;">Below are
a few pictures of the trip: (All credit to my Dad, he’s got a new camera so
took about a thousand photos!!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8otDdSSo35ehrDhc1-SV6O-2ybnZkwijLMMJzwcJw9e-Lonz58ciGnlVvvSCc0B1KvNfBoed4kO0Ml8rrGToovo8H7YEippp6-Utwcspvt-vWkPo7WCuhFOvXAtTkkn8osPdOob_1to/s1600/IMG_3768+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8otDdSSo35ehrDhc1-SV6O-2ybnZkwijLMMJzwcJw9e-Lonz58ciGnlVvvSCc0B1KvNfBoed4kO0Ml8rrGToovo8H7YEippp6-Utwcspvt-vWkPo7WCuhFOvXAtTkkn8osPdOob_1to/s400/IMG_3768+(2).jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Warming up</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoeOSgyd5KxcC1F2IEcs8qRTYi5dCnUGmtbdNNUR0T77hLEUIr-VyM6IsAExmVtmLjVCzRXLW-DZ19AlqQ8t4dWAHIyc4KNpuPL4VgeQtibjBjYrfVW0QUbBBs38R_5HWI5TRIcILxfc/s1600/IMG_4448+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoeOSgyd5KxcC1F2IEcs8qRTYi5dCnUGmtbdNNUR0T77hLEUIr-VyM6IsAExmVtmLjVCzRXLW-DZ19AlqQ8t4dWAHIyc4KNpuPL4VgeQtibjBjYrfVW0QUbBBs38R_5HWI5TRIcILxfc/s400/IMG_4448+%25283%2529.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Something Stupid, 7b Onsight</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTfxhBfhKHpKnvmID7vrj_wBeaTpoa-YzjjuVtsaa7dEjPJjL86H8g2_FqFaB7kJ-9JvShymXtwFAGGJAVMKc78IE77u3lJHUM0pwykirZKaRuVg33XQiSHVbRiDqDLDp7jVQHYYzcjr8/s1600/IMG_4534+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTfxhBfhKHpKnvmID7vrj_wBeaTpoa-YzjjuVtsaa7dEjPJjL86H8g2_FqFaB7kJ-9JvShymXtwFAGGJAVMKc78IE77u3lJHUM0pwykirZKaRuVg33XQiSHVbRiDqDLDp7jVQHYYzcjr8/s400/IMG_4534+%25282%2529.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Starting Wasted Youth... (love this picture!)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghCp7JU0yBm2Kpz8rgMajiyuIA2mixIO5_dnPmZsMuAENN1LKLx7R2lUpGDK0snvffm33A8Ais9smhk7Od5Fjw0-gVfOFUv246LGnYv_rOue4vBpDDeZ5-pT0qezbl0Eq08gp49sr25IU/s1600/IMG_4589+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghCp7JU0yBm2Kpz8rgMajiyuIA2mixIO5_dnPmZsMuAENN1LKLx7R2lUpGDK0snvffm33A8Ais9smhk7Od5Fjw0-gVfOFUv246LGnYv_rOue4vBpDDeZ5-pT0qezbl0Eq08gp49sr25IU/s400/IMG_4589+%25282%2529.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And off!!</span></div>
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<br /></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-138489115276805712012-05-24T15:57:00.001-07:002012-05-24T15:58:26.919-07:00First European<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Not been on for a while,
been training so much recently there just hasn’t been the time…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This weekend was something
I’d been waiting for essentially since I started climbing: my first European
competition. Due to my poor performance at the assessment day, this was my
first one for a while so I needed to make it count. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We flew up on Thursday (on
a flight that was more going up and going down than anything!) and arrived in a
rainy <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Edinburgh</st1:place></st1:city>
late afternoon. The hotel was extremely dull, so after 2 days of that I was
happy to be climbing again!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Saturday morning started
early with a 7:30 wake up, breakfast then off to the wall. Our routes were
being demoed by video, something which was new to me, but that wasn’t due to
start for another hour so we set about reading our 2 qualifying routes. The
first, a hard green on the old comp wall which began with a technical start
that moved into some powerful spans and then an endurance-fest to the top,
looked doable, but the long moves in the middle were likely to be the ones that
threw me off. The second, a pumpy, technical roof with lots of heel hooks and
some big spans looked far more my style, which was good as I was on there
first. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This comp they had decided
to split our category (as we were the largest) into 2 groups, running the 2
qualifiers simultaneously with some people doing route 1 first and the rest
route 2. I disagree with this on the basis that this is applying 2 different
groups to 2 different set of circumstances, which isn’t a fair system.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After we’d seen our demos,
I was 11<sup>th</sup> on our first route. The first straight up section looked
fairly simple, with most coming off on a spanny traverse across the steepest
section of roof onto a volume. I got to this section not too pumped, and moved
through relatively easily, although I was now pumped out of my mind. I got a
small rest at the volume, although wasted a huge amount of energy trying to
clip a draw that was just too far away. I tried swinging the draw but it was
still too far. I gave up on the clip and went for the move around the lip,
something that lots of people had been falling on, and stuck it, although only
just and got a toe hook on the volume. I was now beyond pumped, stuck one more
move, and just couldn’t get my heel up for the final move. I slapped, touched
the final hold but I didn’t get the best bit of the hold and was so pumped I
couldn’t stick it. I was happy, but one more move could have topped me my first
8a flash! I was placed 6<sup>th</sup> on that route, getting the furthest of
anyone who didn’t top it by 3 or 4 moves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’d managed to pull my
quad on the first route, so got it taped up before my second route. This looked
much harder, and I got to a good rest on the volume and could feel a flash pump
coming on. This was bad. I have a problem where after a short session of 6 or
so routes, I seem to flash pump on absolutely everything. It doesn’t matter
whether its 6a or 8a, I just can’t hold on. This time it just seemed to happen
quicker than normal though, and I made the next hard move, a long, powerful
reach into a thin crack before my arms just stopped working. I came off without
having moved enough to warrant a + point on that move. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was livid for coming off
so quickly, but figured I still had a chance, as many of the climbers had come
off a reasonably hard move much lower down. When the results came in I was
gutted. 11<sup>th</sup>, one place off a final and even worse I was just a +
point on my second route away from coming in 6<sup>th</sup>. Such a small
margin, and due to the way the scoring worked I’d actually climbed further than
many of the climbers in the final, but they beat me on position by making it
that one + extra. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I know 11<sup>th</sup> is
good for a first European, but its just frustrating that it was by such small
margins. On a positive note I ate lots of food that evening, won a trip to <st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region> for a week and am now training hard for my
next European in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Imst</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Austria</st1:country-region></st1:place> in August. Good timing, as
I arrive back from Ceuse the week before, PSYCHED!!!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-14218893054710239102012-03-25T14:32:00.003-07:002012-03-25T15:12:17.178-07:00Pet Cemetery<div class="MsoNormal">I don’t normally update my blog this quickly, but I have just had quite a good day…</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">After the Quay comp on Saturday, we headed out to Ansteys to try a couple of routes. After Cider Soak last week, I was keen to get on something more difficult to see where abouts my outdoor limit is, so I got on Pet Cemetery, the 2* 8a+ linkup on Ferocity Wall. The route starts up the classic 7b+ crackline The Lynch, before a very hard boulder problem that ends at the jug at the last bolt on Cider Soak. The route then continues up Cider Soak to the chains. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It took a go or two to remember my sequence on The Lynch (which I had worked last year but never finished) and get the clips up, then climbed it to warm up. Then I stuck the clips in on the traverse and lowered off. I worked the crux boulder problem, which seemed really hard! Fortunately I managed to find a nice sequence through the traverse. Basically, I match the best hold in the middle, before slapping to a good side pull and sticking my heel up. The heel was the thing that allowed me to stick it, and I managed to make the big move off the next hold quite easily after that. I gave it a go from the start, but a combination of the Quay competition and working the route meant I pumped out at the very start of the crux problem. We headed off, feeling hopeful for the next session.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Today we headed back out (but not before registering and having a look at the Life Centre, more on that soon, I’m going for a climb tomorrow) and I was determined to get it done. My first attempt putting the clips up was promising, and I would have managed the crux if I hadn’t had z-clipped the clip before!!!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The next attempt was the one. The Lynch went well; I even missed the second clip to feel all fancy, and got to the jam rest. The crux felt solid, match was fine, big move out left, heel up, right hand over, sort out left foot and pull for jug! I hit it! Not pumped, just had to relax a bit for the top section, then launched into it. All of a sudden I was topping out and the chains were clipped! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">First 8a+, didn’t really feel that bad and defiantly not at my limit! Tuppence next!!!!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Video (Pretty awful but there was no-one there to video it so we just had to set it recording on the pinnacle over the other side!)<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-20173387309052577662012-03-22T13:51:00.000-07:002012-03-22T13:51:48.240-07:00The Ups and the Downs<div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Assessment day<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It’s been a while since I last wrote on here, but I’ve had no good news to talk about! However, I do now, but we’ll start with the not so good stuff…<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the 3<sup>rd</sup> of March I had an assessment day for the British team, and this has been my focus for the last few months. The idea was that we had 5 routes to attempt, a 7b, 2 7b+s and 2 7cs. Completing 3 would qualify you for selection to European events this year. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The day started well enough, a bit numb (because of the cold!) on the first route but got up it, and the second route was fine, although I was pretty shaky (not sure if it was nerves or excess caffeine…). Then it started to go wrong. The third route started up a steep wall, before turning a small lip and moving into a technical corner. I started off up the first wall fine, but as I was moving through the steepest part I got the worst flash pump of my life! It was incredible, my arms just didn’t work! By some ridiculous fluke I managed to pull the last few moves before the no hands rest in the corner, but it was very close! In the corner I had a rest and a breather, and moved on into the technical, crimpy, slopey corner. It was fine up until one move, where it turned out you had to use the feature screw-ons (which were a different colour to the wall and all chalked up!) which I thought weren’t in! Even without these, I managed the move with difficultly and cruised to the top!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then it went really badly! After a good long rest, and some exercises to clear the remains of the pump it was time for our</span> <span style="font-family: Calibri;">4</span><sup style="font-family: Calibri;">th</sup> <span style="font-family: Calibri;"> route. This one was all about endurance,</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> but on the crux, my foot slipped going for a good hold. I wasn’t happy at all… The worst part was I did the route the next day all the way to the top (we were only going to 2/3 height) with no pump at all, very frustrating!! <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">My final climb was even worse, I was frustrated about the 4<sup>th</sup> route, so didn’t rest long enough before my attempt, and as a result I once again flash pumped at around ½ height. This time there wasn’t a no hands rest to save me, so I was off within a couple of moves! A lesson to be learnt there somewhere…<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">After the day I was selected for the Ratho EYC in May, along with the Imst EYC in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Austria</st1:place></st1:country-region> in August (just after Ceuse so should have some good endurance!). Then after that there’s the European Championships and the Kranj EYC that haven’t been selected for yet, so I better get cracking!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Calibri;">CWIF and Peak<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A week later, I took a train up north to <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place> to compete in CWIF. I’ve always seen this comp online, but this year was the first time I actually got a chance to compete, so I was pretty psyched! Looking at the problems, they all looked hard, with just one that I could confidently say I could do every time, although most of the rest looks like they were do-able. I started off on some of the slightly easier ones to begin with, but quickly moved on to some of the harder ones before they became too crowded. Apart from the occasional route with a long move, it went quite well, and I ended up scoring 156, putting me in 58<sup>th</sup> place overall and 4<sup>th</sup> (I think) in the under 18s! I must be better at bouldering than real climbing…<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the Sunday it was looking really nice, so we headed out for a bit of a boulder at Stanage. Turns out it may have been a bit TOO nice, as the rock was really greasy! After a bit of a mess about on the pebble we moved on to the only problem we knew would be in the shade, Brad Pit. I looked at it last year when I was up there, but never had a go, so this time was my first session. The beta is generally match the rail then heel up to the left of the rail, then go left hand up to the bottom of the sloper and then match with the right. From the sloper, hand up to a rubbish crimp then slap or just dyno off the sloper. Might as well start with the tall beta!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">My first attempt seemed pretty promising to me, and I managed to touch the sloper. The next was even better, and I managed to get a bit of a hold on the sloper! After a few more goes, I stuck the sloper with the left hand and then in a few more I managed to match the sloper. Then it started to get really hard! The next move was huge! Even with the top crimp I couldn’t even slap for the finish! I worked out the problem was it was so warm, meaning my hand was slipping off of the sloper when I got to the crimp, so I had to readjust it so it was back on before the slap. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">By this point, I was about to miss my train home, so after a couple of incredibly close slaps (almost holding it) I had one final go:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/JHdGI-iEXC0?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Will defiantly go next time if it’s a bit colder!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Cider Soak<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Finally some success! <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">On Sunday, I went up to Ansteys Cove for a bit of a play, and the draws were up in Cider Soak, the classic 8a of the crag, which I’ve wanted to do for ages, but this was my first real go. On my first bolt to bolt I surprised myself, getting every move either first or second go! I had a few more bolt to bolts that day and was getting mot of the moves first go, apart from the move off of the resting jug. I was getting worse, so decided to call it a day, so took the draws out determined to come back soon.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">That day came soon enough, the next day in fact, but I only had about an hour get it done (I should have waited really, I was 4<sup>th</sup> day on!)! I bolt to bolted it to get the draws in, then went for the redpoint! My first attempt was a flop, my foot popping while clipping the third draw.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next go I was feeling strong, moving though the first section well, and was quite surprised when I latched the resting jug! The first section is the crux, but the section from the jug is almost as hard and entirely droppable. In my bolt to bolts I’d done the move off of the jug in a very powerful way, and when I was resting and had a couple of test go’s, I realised I wouldn’t be able to do it that way this time. I made up a bit of beta involving a match on a crimp, and I had the sloper. Right hand to the crimp, heel on, left hand to the sloper , heel up, slap to the crimp, slap with the right hand to the jug! I’d done it :D My first 8a outdoors, and come to think of it, about my 10<sup>th</sup> completed route on rock… Time to get some mileage in! Anyway, I have completed one of my goals, to climb 8a outdoors before I was 15!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A video of the assent is here:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/sQ_ZtVJdIB8/0.jpg"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/sQ_ZtVJdIB8&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/sQ_ZtVJdIB8&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">In Easter I’ll be headed up north to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Malham</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Scotland</st1:country-region></st1:place> and the Lakes! I’ll keep you posted!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-82988495908250618622012-02-05T13:52:00.000-08:002012-02-05T13:52:46.038-08:00Traveling<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hi Everyone,<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Its been a couple of weeks of travelling for me, starting with a bouldering comp at TCA in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Bristol</st1:city></st1:place>. I really should spend more time there, it’s awesome! In the comp I was climbing well until a foot slip spat me off one of the easier problems at around halfway which really stopped any chance of doing really well. I ended up in 5<sup>th </sup>(would have been 4<sup>th</sup> within a couple of holds of the winner without the slip), fine for a bouldering comp against some really strong guys, including at least one 8a boulderer!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">We then drove on up to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Wales</st1:place></st1:country-region> and stayed with Simon Rawlinson. We had some great ethics debates and our conversation reminded me how much I want to do The Quarryman groove pitch! Its such a great line and the moves just look so cool. I’d really like to get up there during the summer to try it, but it might be beyond me at the moment.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/lLyF8zcP674?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i>Johnny Dawes on The Quarryman </i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">After a walk around Dinas in the morning (defiantly a place for the future!), we headed off for Dynamic Rock for the leading ladder. I always like the setting here, and this round was no exception. Up to 6c were awesome, but the 7a was really hard, and almost spat me off on more than one move! I got it though (after a proper fight), and moved onto the really nice 7b, which felt easier than the 7a. I then moved onto the 7c, which was fine up to a low footed rockover. The move was off of two rubbish slopers, low foot and a move out right to a rubbish two finger pocket at the edge of my span and then go again to a good side pull. This move was a real stopper for me, and after 3 or 4 goes admitted defeat and moved onto the 8a. The 8a was awesome, but the two days had got to me, and twice I flash pumped about halfway on really good holds, showing me that the session was all but over. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A good weekend, and a couple of reasonable comps.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This weekend we headed to Kendal wall to scope it out before the assessment day. Now there are a lot words that can describe that wall, but the one I’m going to go for is HUGE! It’s massive, just walking from the ground floor to the top via the stairs is tiring! The main wall is 24.5 meters tall, which means that it is almost 3 times longer than The Barn! <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">After a quick plod up a 6a I was pretty freaked, heights aren’t really my strong point but I got on a 7a on the main wall, and after climbing to the top and jumping off (which caused me to fall the length of The Barn!) I was feeling really good.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I started on the 7a which was fine, before moving onto the 7b which was relatively easy up until a big dyno off of a rubbish hold to finish, which I stuck and topped. I was a bit pumped by this point so had a bit of a rest, but the wall was so cold I had to warm up again on the 6a to get any feeling back! I figured that was a good opportunity to get on the easier routes and did the rest of the routes up to 6c, which included a terrifying trip up the corner of the main wall. 20 meters up, no hands on and rubbish feet is not really a time for thinking…<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I then got on the 7c, which was a huge stamina fest up the main wall again. My first go had me stumped by what I’m sure was a crossover, which I tried as a crossover but the feet were too low and I came off. The next go I just monoed the right of the hold and matched, which worked and I pulled on up to about 2/3 height before I flash pumped after the long day. A quick go on the 8a and a few more on the 7c confirmed that the session was all but over, so we left before the snow got too deep! The journey was a bit sketchy in places because of the snow, but we made it to the services and slept.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Today we went back to Dynamic rock. We planned to go to Malham for the day but the snow the fact it would have been ridiculously cold put a stop to that one. At the wall I got on the 8a first, and after a couple of mistakes near the top that I put down to pure stupidity, I got it and added a whole 6 points to my score. That stubborn move on the 7c didn’t go for ages, but after deciding to not go for the 1 point I worked the move and eventually managed to do it, missing out the good hold and pulling hard off the rubbish 2 finger pocket. It would probably go next session but I was too knackered today.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It’s been a good couple of weekends, and a load of training is scheduled for the next month. PSYCHED!!!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy Climbing,<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex<o:p></o:p></span></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-80461730655584668842012-01-17T15:09:00.000-08:002012-08-09T12:55:25.105-07:00Injuries and New Year Goals...<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hi everyone!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Well I’ve managed to do a tendon!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve had a pain in my wrist for a while (it was a niggling pain, for about a second after I’d pulled on any hold), but it stopped after Christmas after a bit of rest, but it came back recently. I saw the physio and it turns out I’ve managed to tweak a tendon slightly in my wrist. Two weeks rest it is!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Turns out I actually do very little else other than climbing, so for the last 12 days 9hours (yes I am counting…) I’ve really been doing very little. I’ve been doing a lot of core and still been turning up to squad, but it’s quite dull really… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I haven’t posted any goals so far this year, so here goes:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strike>-Climb 8a outdoors before April (Raindogs or Cider Soak hopefully)</strike><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">-Onsight 8a indoors<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strike>-Make the semis at Edinburg EYC</strike> sort of... not semis but 11th would have been...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">-Go to the Worlds in <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Singapore <b>Nope!</b></st1:place></st1:country><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">-Don’t get injured (again… ;))<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">To be honest I feel most of these may not happen but I really am trying my best!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy Climbing!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">p.s. sorry for the short post, it's late!!</span></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1919062185500832863.post-41104593846354056332012-01-08T10:12:00.000-08:002012-01-08T10:12:46.896-08:00Easy as that...<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hi Everyone,<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It’s been an interesting week! TV appearances, articles, leading ladder and a nice day at Bonehill…<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Last week I did the leading ladder at DartRock, and after onsighting all but the 8a in the last round there, I was keen to do better this time. The routes all looked crimpy, balancey and technical, my kind of thing! All the routes up to 7b were absolutely fine, although the 6a was solid for the grade!! The 7c looked to have one long move about halfway, and looking at the bolt spaces at the ground I knew that my feet would have to come off, so set off a bit apprehensive. When I got to the move I just committed straight away, stuck the move and got to the top. I’d matched last round, which would have been good enough. Looking at the 8a, it really didn’t look that bad, some rubbish holds at the top looking like the only problem. While I got 1 piece of beta wrong about halfway, I reversed a few moves and got it relatively easily, then on to the top! Technically my first 8a onsight, although I’m not going to count it because it felt a little bit easy for the grade, a great route though. My first 200 in the leading ladder, lets hope there’s a few more like this!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I recently appeared on Spotlight, and I don’t think I did that badly!! We got a call from the BBC on Thursday, and I missed the last 2 lessons of school to go for an interview at The Barn. We were expecting a 15 minute thing where he asked us a few questions, but instead we ended up filming for 2 and a half hours! It ended up coming together quite well, and I was quite pleased really! <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Yesterday I had a nice little day up at Bonehill. I did Slopey Traverse and Rippled wall, both great problems which I’ve done before. I was bouldering with a few people and was told about some micro routes that were worth soloing, and thought that I’d take the opportunity of a few pads and spotters to give them a go. I did the E1 arête without a problem, so decided to give the E2 a go! It was defiantly good moves, but the top out was something I wouldn’t have done if it was on the ground, never mind 8m up! It was a horrible rounded thing with not a crystal to speak of, so I made the decision to traverse off, but the lower moves were hard and it was really scary, defiantly more so than the E1, so I’m taking the grade!!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkh8XQB-F04VLW_EqDDg3QScLmlsdyhUMfRdbVH8F7UTQ3G1neINDzkY2hFkpLZJL4VStPcKWJ4fIXVNK1bVZZyJzxNqSteoImRVOYLL6cGTCz4iY357uWmUAsDqn4YCLdx-LuX7-YKq4/s1600/DSCF3992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkh8XQB-F04VLW_EqDDg3QScLmlsdyhUMfRdbVH8F7UTQ3G1neINDzkY2hFkpLZJL4VStPcKWJ4fIXVNK1bVZZyJzxNqSteoImRVOYLL6cGTCz4iY357uWmUAsDqn4YCLdx-LuX7-YKq4/s400/DSCF3992.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i>You Cannot Be Serious V3 6a (E2/3 to solo)</i></span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i> To the right of the arête is an obvious large hold. Start on this, go direct above, then move right at the top to finish steeply on big holds. Finish direct - scary and high. Wimps can finish direct into the groove (which is still scary!) or traverse right to step onto adjacent ledge. </i><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Been a great week!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Happy Climbing,<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Alex :)<o:p></o:p></span></div>Alexhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10337251237584609036noreply@blogger.com0