Sunday, 25 March 2012

Pet Cemetery

I don’t normally update my blog this quickly, but I have just had quite a good day…

After the Quay comp on Saturday, we headed out to Ansteys to try a couple of routes. After Cider Soak last week, I was keen to get on something more difficult to see where abouts my outdoor limit is, so I got on Pet Cemetery, the 2* 8a+ linkup on Ferocity Wall. The route starts up the classic 7b+ crackline The Lynch, before a very hard boulder problem that ends at the jug at the last bolt on Cider Soak. The route then continues up Cider Soak to the chains.

It took a go or two to remember my sequence on The Lynch (which I had worked last year but never finished) and get the clips up, then climbed it to warm up. Then I stuck the clips in on the traverse and lowered off. I worked the crux boulder problem, which seemed really hard! Fortunately I managed to find a nice sequence through the traverse. Basically, I match the best hold in the middle, before slapping to a good side pull and sticking my heel up. The heel was the thing that allowed me to stick it, and I managed to make the big move off the next hold quite easily after that. I gave it a go from the start, but a combination of the Quay competition and working the route meant I pumped out at the very start of the crux problem. We headed off, feeling hopeful for the next session.

Today we headed back out (but not before registering and having a look at the Life Centre, more on that soon, I’m going for a climb tomorrow) and I was determined to get it done. My first attempt putting the clips up was promising, and I would have managed the crux if I hadn’t had z-clipped the clip before!!!

The next attempt was the one. The Lynch went well; I even missed the second clip to feel all fancy, and got to the jam rest. The crux felt solid, match was fine, big move out left, heel up, right hand over, sort out left foot and pull for jug! I hit it! Not pumped, just had to relax a bit for the top section, then launched into it. All of a sudden I was topping out and the chains were clipped!

First 8a+, didn’t really feel that bad and defiantly not at my limit! Tuppence next!!!!

Video (Pretty awful but there was no-one there to video it so we just had to set it recording on the pinnacle over the other side!)



1 comment:

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