Looking Back and Looking Forward

As 2012 draws to (a very wet!) close I thought I would take a look back over the year, a forward into next year.

2012 was my first year in the GB team, and my first year of international competition, and was certainly an eye opener. It didn’t start too well with a poor performance at the team assessment day in March meaning I wasn’t selected for some of the first EYCs but I was psyched for the first one at Ratho and eager to show what I was capable of!

I finished 11^th, missing out on the final by one place and just a plus point. Frustrating and pleasing at the same time, and because of my poor performance at the assessment day I would have to wait until Imst in August to try and improve. This was of course a setback, but that, along with my abysmal climbing at the assessment day I believe pushed me on in my training in general, and helped me to climb how I did in future competitions.

I spent the next two months alternating between the Barn and High Sports working on my endurance. Lap after lap on the 16 metre wall at High Sports, and lap after lap on the 45 degree board at the Barn! I do like being pumped……..

At the beginning of the summer holidays I went to Ceuse for 10 days, about the best crag in the world and an ideal training venue. The horrendous walk in and the long routes were perfect for building up my endurance. I had a great time there, and it was nice to be at a crag with so many great climbers. Inspiring stuff and I managed my hardest onsight of 7c+ there as well. We came straight back to Ratho for the Youth Open. The training and Ceuse had paid off, I won. My first win at National level and it felt good! It also meant I was selected for the European championships in France in November and I travelled to Imst the following weekend feeling confident.

Imst was my second EYC and I was keen to improve on my 11^th place at Ratho. The first qualifier went well finishing in joint 4^th so I just needed a good climb on the second qualifier to be in the final. It didn’t go well and I was 7^th when I fell with lots of good climbers still to go. A stressful wait began which I did not enjoy and I ended up 16^th on the route, but in the end just enough to make the final. I was great to have made the final but the stress and worry meant I hadn’t warmed down properly and drunk anything so, despite and good meal and an early bed, I didn’t feel quite as good as I could have the next day. This showed in the final, getting pumped early and then missing a hold meant I didn’t improve on my qualifying position and remained tenth. A big lesson for the future, but an improvement on Ratho, but could still do better……………

Next comp was the BLCC’s at Ratho., I went there planning to win, but I’m still making small errors that are costly. I finished a disappointing 5^th, but it was enough for selection for the final EYC at Kranj at the end of November.

The next big competition was the first ever European Championships held in Gemozac in France. My dad and I will always remember this weekend as it was very emotional for both of us. As we were travelling out we heard that my Grandpa had died suddenly in Spain which was a shock, but in a strange way relieved the pressure on me and despite the circumstances I felt relaxed when I came out to climb. They were running the routes simultaneously  so I climbed my hardest route first and was moving well until my foot popped, but I had finished tenth on the route so knew that a top on the second route would be enough. The route went well and I felt solid the whole way, clipping the chains to lots of noise from the GB support and was in the final in 8^th place. This time I warmed down properly, drank plenty of fluids and had a big bowl of pasta before an early night and woke up feeling fresh and ready!

The final looked like it suited me and the 6 minutes observation was spent reading and refining the sequence. The route started well and I moved through the opening sequences easily. Then it went wrong. I didn’t clip from where I should have and moved to a point where it was difficult to clip from. Despite numerous attempts, I just couldn’t get the clip in and eventually resorted to lifting the clip with my foot, which I knew wasn’t allowed, and was called off the route. I was bitterly disappointed as, yet again, a mistake had cost me. I felt sure I could have gone on but in the end I finished 7^th.

The last EYC of the year was at Kranj in Slovenia and I really wanted to finish on a high. My Dad surprised me by turning up at the hotel on Friday, and as it was his birthday on the Saturday I was keen for a good result. Alas, it wasn’t to be. Yet again small errors cost me and I finished in my worst position of the year in 21^st

The aim for next year is less mistakes…………………

Other highlights of the Year included climbing The Cider Soak, 8a and then Pet Cemetery, 8a+ both before my 15 birthday, and Raindogs 8a at Malham and winning the seniors at the Irish Lead Climbing Championships.

Next year has, in effect already begun, with the December Youth Open, at Awesome walls Liverpool, and the first round of the BBC’s held the next day and the Climbing Hanger. These events form part of the GB team selection for next year and everyone move up to next years categories. I was moving up to Youth A, where I would join Buster Martin, Luke Dawson, and Conner Byrne and was keen and make my mark in another very strong category. The qualifiers went well, and I topped the first route, and finished 2^nd on route two, falling from a horrible slopey volume. This meant I went into the final in 2^nd behind Buster.

The final was steep and long, but I climbed badly in the lower half, my feet weren’t working for me and I cut loose twice before the crux traverse. I was pumped. A good heel I could sit on a bit gave me a lot back, and the traverse was really enjoyable. Then the crux. As in Kranj, I ignored the beta I had scoped from the ground, opting for what felt right. Wrong again. The heel did not allow me enough reach, and my pumped arms gave up as I tried to turn my foot for my original beta. Off backwards! Buster went on to top the route, one of the best efforts I’ve seen, and the first power screams of his I’ve heard! I ended up 2^nd, and I’m reasonably happy with that for my first competition in Youth A, here’s to a good next year!

The next day was the first round of the 2013 BBC’s. The format had been changed and it is now over a number of rounds, a nice addition, although they could have not had 2 of the rounds in Scotland, worse than lead! I went to the wall happy with the weekend, and I was extremely relaxed during the qualifiers. I was very surprised by how I did in the qualifiers, and when I was doing problems the strong guys were falling on I was stunned! I ended up qualifying in 2^nd, how I have no idea!!

The finals looked good but hard. The first was an amazing slab, which I knew no one before me had even done the first move, something that frustrated me about the final. It was not full isolation and we could speak to each other when we returned, on this occasion it helped me as it took all pressure off, but a format as in world cups would work better, or as with the BBCs last year. I spent around 7 goes sorting out the first move, but then with 40 seconds on the clock did the move with a weird press. I had no chalk so had to move quickly, a thin film of sweat building as I rested. I got to the bonus, slipping off but managed to hold it and move to the undercut before the finishing hold. The foot was hard to see and as I moved across to put it on the hold I missed, slid down and was off! Frustrating but as only one other had reached the bonus it put me in a strong position.

Then the problems got really hard. One person, Hamish Pokotar, a Briston TCA wad, topped it, but the rest of us were stopped just above the bonus. Again on the 3^rd problem, it was very hard and none of us could top. I ended up being 2^nd, after getting all the bonuses and behind Hamish by that one top. Not bad considering bouldering isn’t my main discipline!

I ended up selected for the GB Lead and bouldering teams for 2013, a great result for my first competitions in Youth A!  Next year is going to be a good year……..

Happy Climbing,

Alex

European Championships

Last weekend was a competition that was significant for me not only in my performance but also in my emotions. On Wednesday night, the eve of our travelling to France, I was told my granddad had died suddenly walking in the Spanish mountains. It was a real shock for me, we were close and the news hit me hard, but I knew exactly what I was climbing for.

The Bordeaux region at this time of year is just like England, very wet! I tried to stay hydrated through Friday, as in previous Europeans I’ve always struggled with fluids and it seemed to pay off. I woke up late Saturday morning feeling light and strong and had a leisurely breakfast of bread and cheese. As we were climbing in the afternoon, we went to the wall slightly early to watch the Youth As and Juniors, as well as scope out the warming up area and any routes that were potentially ours.

As we predicted, we had the same routes as the Junior girls. I was on last for the first route, but because the routes were run simultaneously and I was around halfway through on route 2 I would be on that first. Route 2 was a blue route going up the longest part of the wall, a variable angle section ranging from vertical to around 20° off. It was perfect for me, and despite a rushed start from an unexpectedly low fall by the competitor before me, I was off and moving well.

The first section was reasonably steady, small holds but they were all positive, and the same for the middle. The top was thin pockets, so accuracy was key on this section. I climbed well, feet moving intuitively and not getting too pumped, and I was soon past a long go-again off a good pinch that many came off, with the help of a high foot. I swapped feet, and in my mind I was 100% sure I reached the hold just below the lip, a small pinch and was moving off that when my foot slipped off a slopey-topped slot. The video tells a different story, and despite the certainty in my mind (to the extent remembering the feeling of the hold and the dynamics of the next move), I had got to the hold before that. Still, it placed me well but I had to get high on route 1 (my route 2) to be sure of a place in the final.

Route 2 was short, around 12m, all technical and balancey on small holds. Perfect! Around 5 or 6 had topped before me and I was last on the route, bad for the friction on a route that had already been described as greasy. I set off and it felt fine, turned the lip of the steep section onto the final headwall and had a small shake on a pair of reasonable holds by the second to last clips. The end was in sight, with just one move to a sloper left to stick to be above the highpoint of anyone who hadn’t topped. I stuck it, made a move round a corner, clipped, next hold and I topped! I knew this put me in a pretty good position in terms of qualifying and i was very happy, I think my celebration showed that! I was interviewed afterwards, and to be honest I have no idea how that went, but it may have been rubbish! I was in the final in 8^th, already an improvement on previous EYCs. Now to crush in the final.

We went back to the hotel early to eat and get a good nights sleep, missing the Junior and A finals which I was quite disappointed about, the opening ceremony we stayed for was very spectacular! I was in bed early, around 10 and woke easily as 7 the next morning, feeling light and strong. This was very different to Imst, there I woke feeling stiff and tired. This, I believe, is down to my warm down after route 2 the previous day. I did a full warm down immediately after my route, whereas in Imst I delayed it a lot, even then not doing a full warm down. Warming up I felt good, though due to the small area I had I couldn’t go for a run and I’d forgotten my skipping rope! Despite this I was feeling strong, ready for anything the final could be.

We went out to observation, and had 6 minutes to view the route to determine a sequence. It looked reasonably straight forward, a powerful start into a close to vertical array of arêtes and rockovers. It looked perfect for me, and as the first climbers began I did the final stages of my warm up.

I felt ready, secure, focussed and calm when I left isolation, dropped my jacket to the ground and stepped onto the wall, no hesitation. The first moves were fine, bar a match where I expected to go to a different hold. A match on the tufa-like volume in the roof was hard, and required a big flag to stop the swing. The next section through small holds on volumes suited me well, with many heel hooks to keep the weight off my fingers.

I came to a slopey sidepull with a good heel, but instead of clipping as I should, the next hold looked positive and I moved to that instead. The hold was a small slot, worse than I expected, so I moved again to a big sloper. Looking back, this was my final chance to clip, but instead I moved off again. The move was long but I was still feeling strong and I held the small crimp ok. Again I looked at the clip and decided to move to the next hold. It was at that point I knew it was too late. I couldn’t reach the clip. I shook once, climbed down, attempted to clip but I couldn’t, I was too high! Again I went back up and put a heel on to steady myself, catching the clip with my foot as I did. I noticed this, and desperation meant I tried to guide the draw up with my foot. This is against the rules, but I was above the clip be such an amount where I couldn’t even reach the top of the draw. The foot lift was unsuccessful and that was it then, I climbed up and down twice more in vain attempts to clip before I was called off the route. The foot lift had been seen and the judges had decided it was enough to call me up on. I was scored to the hold before where I’d got to, putting me in 3^rd when I came off.

 The move to the hold I was scored to proved difficult and 2 people dropping it going for the hold, and 1 reaching the hold but not moving off, who I beat on time. This meant I was placed in 7^th overall. This was frustrating, I was reasonably fresh when I got to the next hold, and could easily have made the next move, which alone would have placed me in 6^th. Of course, in the grand scheme of things 7^th is amazing, but its just the niggling feeling that could have gone better, one day I’ll have a comp where I make no mistakes, lets hope its Kranj!

This weekend was all about my Granddad, and he would have been ecstatic with my placing, so I am too, especially give the circumstances! Wales blog next, Ireland next week for Irish champs and Kranj the week after that! PSYCHED!

BLCCs 2012

Another long journey to Edinburgh last weekend almost ended in disaster when we very nearly missed the Edinburgh stop. I’m not sure how it happened considering we were both awake but we packed up and made it off just in time!

We were in Edinburgh for the British Lead Climbing Championship, a competition that I’ve always enjoyed, as the routes are always fun and the wall is as always incredible. This year was no exception, and with the Hangar wall at its steepest our first route climbed its left arête. It looked fine until the edge of the roof, where there was a long powerful slap around the arête, to a good hold. I was up 3^rd, and with one person getting to the slap I set off. I felt fine, had a quick shake on a good hold, and then moved into the roof section. The holds were good but the slap looked long, so I put a heel underneath an undercut spike. I was slapping reasonably statically around the lip, but when I went for a tick mark on the lip there was no hold, just more wall! I was stretched out and committed by that point, and without a left hand to fall back on my heel popped and I was off!

Turned out the tick mark I slapped for was above the hold, a sequencing error! It was frustrating to fall off barely pumped, especially since new beta found only a few after me rendered the move pretty easy! I was annoyed but it was on to the next route, a slabby, balancey, horror fest, perfect!

I was on late, and by me only one had topped the route. I moved through the first section well, a small mistake with a clip but I was soon nearing the final key rockover. I love any slab route in a competition, and this was no exception, I made the rockover stick and was soon on a slopey crimp and a small but positive feature. I felt in balance and control, and made the final move stick. I clipped the chains and lowered to the ground. I was in the final, qualifying in 4^th place.

After checking the time of isolation, I headed to the café for a snack before the wait, and came down just before 2.30. I was packing up my stuff and people kept asking me if I was meant to be in isolation. Confused and worried, I jogged to the isolation area and made it in just in time! I had been told isolation closed at 3, but it had in fact closed at 2.30. I was relieved I mad it in only just in time, but this also added to the stress of the day!

My warm up was good, and I was soon walking down the tunnel to the final waiting area. I was 3^rd out, but had no idea where the others had got to, bar a slowly swinging clip at around half height. Walking out I got a cold feeling in my hands, like they were about to go numb on the route. My warm up had been good, and I pushed it out of my mind, but I was slightly distracted.

I read the route and set off. It was quite powerful, but I felt fine moving through a big pinch to a sloper and an undercut. The move looked long so I put a heel on the sloper, in the process dropping my foot off the other foothold. This put me too low on the holds, meaning only a dynamic move would allow me to reach the pinch target. I came back down, had a quick shake, as by this point I was very pumped, and tried again. The same thing happened once again. I was very pumped by this point, and had to go for the move. I went, grabbed the hold and very nearly stuck it, but I was off all the same.

Everyone else had used a low foot, but Billy and had opted for the high heel, and it spat us both off. It was irritating to come off two routes due to sequencing errors, but it was a learning curve. I will defiantly look at having multiple sequences for all crux moves, and hopefully this won’t happen again. I am also working on my power, as for the first time I was failing not because of pump, but the moves themselves. I have been working endurance almost exclusively since Imst, and while this has offered good progress, my power has been letting me down lately.

I placed 5^th overall, but despite this I was selected for the final EYC in Kranj, Slovenia. Next comp is the European Championships in Gemozac, France! The event may be being webcast, but I’ll let you know nearer the time!

Happy climbing!

Alex   

  

Training and Comps

After a long summer of comps and trips, its time to settle back into training for the rest of this years comps. After identifying endurance as a weakness of mine, as soon as I got back from Imst I began working hard to get the upper levels I need for European competitions.

Because of the general shortness (in comparison to Europe that is) of the walls in the South West, laps are essential to get the amount of pump required, so 6x4s (6 times up a route, 4 times in a session) have been the main constituents of my sessions over the last months. One thing I have noticed recently, my route climbing has improved hugely in terms of my ability to hold on for longer without getting pumped, but my bouldering has seemed to suffer slightly.

The Quay birthday comp showed this well, and while I topped all of the routes (including an 8a set by Steve McClure) first go, my bouldering was terrible, flashing just 2 of the 6 problems and only getting another 3^rd go. Bouldering never has been a massive strong point of mine, but the extra power on a hard route is always nice!

The next week was the last round and the final of The Barn’s bouldering series. I was in second coming into the round, with a large gap to 3^rd, so I could afford to sit back a bit and save my energy for the final. I got through in second, along with Tom Newberry, Matt Parkinson and Jack Luckhurst in 1^st , 3^rd and 4^th respectively.

It started well, with me topping the first slab on the flash, and only Tom did it second go. Things were looking good, but on the second, more powerful but slightly easier problem, a small dab was ruled too hard to be just a touch, and I could only manage 2^nd go because of this. This meant I was joint first with Tom going into the last problem, a hard, powerful roof sequence.

First go I missed a press into a poor gaston on the roof, but Tom flashed the problem so my chances of winner were gone completely. All I had to do left now was top the problem, and on my 3^rd and final attempt I very nearly did just that, touching the final hold before my fingers gave up. Still a very good second, but my bouldering could defiantly be improved.

Finally, I have decided the winter project! Tuppence, 8b at Ansteys Cove. Initially with a slightly easier, more indirect, start but then the full tick when I’ve got that. This is the start of the 8b+ extension Tuppence Ha’ Penny, so could be a very good long term goal! Time to get on it!

Also, I finally have twitter, so if you want regular updates on my climbing and training just follow me @Alex_Waterhouse!

Alex

Psyched for BLCCs next week and the European Championships in just over a month!! :D

Imst EYC

 All of the training, laps and routes since Ratho had lead up to this weekend. It was my second European Youth Cup and my first overseas competition and I was keen to do well. Imst is an incredible place, not only with the world class wall but the area!

We had the worst flight time in history, so a 4.30 am start meant a 6 hour wait in Munich airport for the rest of the team to arrive. It went as slowly as expected but eventually we were on the road and quickly arrived at Imst. Friday was filled by the alpine coaster and swimming and comp day arrived rapidly.

We woke up at 6:30 (5:30 in the UK) to be down at the wall for its 7:30 opening. I got straight to warming up as I was on 7^th for route 1. The route looked like a sketchy vertical section with lots or terrible holds and rockovers, into a pumpy overhung section before a roof to finish. The demo made it look as hard as we thought and people were soon on the route. 2 climbers had got just above the donut hold before the roof before it was my turn to climb, and I set off up the vertical wall. Climbs often look harder from closer up, but this was not one of those times and the first few clips were far easier than I expected. I moved through to a big move to a sloper, then a few more moves led to a slight rest where I found I could sit on my heel. Unfortunately this made the clip extremely awkward, and it took me at least 3 goes to get it in! This looks quite a short amount of time in the video, but it felt like an age and I was very pumped by the time I got it in! I shook and composed myself, then set off! The next moves were ok, and I stuck a hold that a couple of climbers had come off on, then my forearms finally lost all ability to function and I was off! A match on a double scoring hold had put me in 3^rd when I came off, and this did not go down much during the day, leaving me in equal 4^th with Ruben Firnenburg!

Route 2 was very pumpy, with very few rests and with my endurance not being the best it was going to be hard for me. Jim was on first and a hard long move around half way spat him off, so it defiantly wasn’t easy! I got on and cruised through the first few moves to a hard rockover which many had come off on, but got the wrong part of the hold so had to readjust. I stayed on and was soon at the best rest on the route. I shook and got ready, and tried to move onwards. I began to get very pumped on a big volume, and made it a few more moves until I couldn’t go any further, and came off going for a crimp, just a move before a good rest!

It was a poor performance which left me in 7^th overall with over half the starters left to climb. I couldn’t cope with another 11^th so the stressful wait began. I left and sat in the stands of the football club next to the wall, but I could still see the top of my route! Fortunately I didn’t see many emerge so stretched and listened to some music to try and make the time pass. I went back with just 10 climbers to go and I was on the edge in 8^th place. Those 10 climbs were the most stressful of my life, and after the 7 of them I was in 10^th. Just one good performance from the final 3 could leave me in 11^th again and once again off the final. 1 off, then 2, then 3! I was relieved more than anything, but didn’t want to be too happy until I’d seen the results. I was there, 10^th! My first European final at my first overseas competition and in such an amazing place too!

Now I had to prepare myself for the final. I had never gone for a second day in competition, so I wasn’t sure how to go about it, but a reasonably early bed and a good meal were as good as I could manage. I woke up tired and slightly drained, and warming up on routes I’d done previously I felt like I was getting pumped quickly and lacked something. Not the best start but the isolation was short as I was firs out so after observation I was on almost immediately. I climbed well in the start but a long press to a gaston flustered me slightly as I couldn’t reach it easily, so had to make a dynamic move to catch it with just a thumb before putting the rest of my fingers on. It was hard but I was beginning to get pumped (much earlier then I would have liked) so had to move on. I was getting more and more pumped, and got a small shake on a large flat hold, before a long move out left to a crimp, then a big move to a hold on a volume. I remember seeing the hold while sequencing, but on the route I forgot it was there completely so went for the volume itself. Needless to say it was terrible and I was off. I was frustrated, partly at the fact I had got pumped so quickly but mainly because I’d been stupid enough to miss a crucial hold. 1 other came off in the same place as me, but as he was marginally quicker he finished ahead of me so I remained in 10^th place.

It all comes with experience, and as it was my first final I was just glad to be there, anything else was a bonus. This time it was not to be, but next time I want to not only make the final but perform in that as well as I did in the qualifiers. Next comp is the BLCCs in October, then the European Championships in November! Time to train!!!!! 

The best crag in the world?

Is Ceuse the best crag in the world? Last week I went on the trip I’ve been waiting for and planning for months now. Ceuse is the sport climbing mecca of the world and after months of waiting I was finally going. We packed, squeezed and cut down on luggage to get under the weight limit and at last we drove to Bristol, met with Chris at the airport and eventually we were on the plane away from a cold Britain to a sunny Marseille in over 30oc heat. It was defiantly a change in scenery and on the drive to the campsite we discovered the sheer amount of rock that the French have! We were driving past crags that would have been classics in the UK!

Ceuse!

After shopping in Gap (with me winning the “who can see Ceuse first” game) we arrived at the campsite and pitched up. Ceuse is famed for perfect rock, incredible scenery and amazing routes but as well as that the walk-in is infamous amongst all who have travelled there. It really is a slog, but it’s over eventually and when we got there it did not disappoint. Cascade is an amazing sector, and put anywhere in Britain it would be the best by far (all of the sectors at Ceuse would!). We began on a 6c+ called Medecine douce, famed for not being a warm up and that went ok, onsighting it without too much trouble. I’m not sure what else I got on that first morning, but I didn’t get up anything else that day. I probably did my usual trick of trying too hard too soon, and I proved this theory by walking to the other end of the crag to try L’ami de tout le monde, an 8b that Buster had done a few days earlier. The whole plan for the trip had been to try lots of onsights and flashes, then get on a hard project if I felt strong, but instead I got on the hardest route I’ve ever tried on the first day after just doing a 6c+. Defiantly something to learn from this. I left without even 2 routes on my first day, but if it was any consolation the walk down was much easier. 

The next days were more of almost the same, with only a couple of 7bs being done, but I was improving fast. Ceuse is defiantly a crag that takes some getting used to, with the combination of the walk, the food (I had pasta and a sauce every day for the 8 days I was climbing) and the camping wearing you down before you’ve even begun the classically pumpy routes. The last 2 days was when it really began for me. I was trying a 7c called Galaxy at Berlin before my final rest day, getting high before pumping out and taking a big fall, with my first ever inversion! After doing the classic 7b Super Mickey in the morning, I got back on Galaxy, taking a couple of goes to do the crux boulder problem. The problem has a pair of high starting holds that are normally reached by building a small rock pile but after many feeble attempts which only succeeded in a scattering of rocks I kicked over my latest attempt and started off lower holds, making the start much harder, but I sent the route first go.

That is one thing I didn’t like about Ceuse. Some routes rely on using the first bolt as aid or a large stone pile to reach a good starting hold. If these routes were in Britain you’d just have to find another way around it or tough really. It just seemed to take away from some routes, especially if they are possible without the aid. Still, at least these starts haven’t just been chipped, but left for someone who’s good enough to do in the routes original state!

Buster wanted to have another go on the classic hard 7b+ Blockage Violent, but I still wanted to go for an onsight. I wanted to leave it but figured now was as good a time as any so I went for the route. The moves felt solid and I was moving well, sticking what I assumed at the time to be the crux. When I got to the less steep section around the second to last clip I knew I had it in my sights and called down to Buster that I could do it! The last moves felt fine and I clipped the chains, relieved. This was possibly the highlight of the trip for me so far, I had onsighted Blockage, maybe the classic of the crag. Buster sent the route next go and we headed down after dark on his final day.

The next day was my final day at the crag and my dad was there so we walked up slightly later than usual. I warmed up on Medecine douce then went for my next goal of the trip, an onsight of Vagabond d’occient, another classic 7c the starts up a steep wall onto a long headwall. I cruised up the juggy steep wall to the knee bar rest, recovering for the crux that was sure to follow. The move cam quickly and I launched, sticking it! I moved quickly through the next juggy section with some very long moves before I was finally at the chains! My hardest onsight moving 2 grades in 24 hours, what has this place done to me! I then tried to flash a 7c+ called Le privilege du serpent, but fell high from the final move of the crux, frustrating but we decided to move as the sun was beginning to hit the crag.

Vagabond, 7c onsight

We moved to Berlin to have a final attempt at Mackach Walou, a 7c+ with one of the catchiest names at the crag. I’d fallen high with Buster the previous day and was keen to get back on it. I put the clips in and got the beta sorted, then went for it! It felt fine until the top crux, where I began to get very pumped. I pulled through and slapped up a rib, before getting my self onto a good jug that allowed me to clip, an then a quick shake before the last few moves and clipping the chains. A great way to end the trip!

Ceuse is an amazing place and I would go back any chance I get, and I could defiantly have done with another week or two once I’d gotten into my stride. Oh well, next year here we come!

I was hoping the trip had made me stronger, since as soon as I got back we were on the train to Edinburgh for the Youth Open. This event makes up the selection for the European Youth Championships at Gemozac, France in November so I had to do well.

I arrived early at the wall to find we had 2 qualifiers on the less steep old competition wall, and our first looked very similar to the first qualifier in the Europeans earlier in the year. I was 5^th onto this climb and so didn’t have a massive amount of beta for the top section, only the demo, who had fallen off on the final move.

I moved quickly through the first section, finding a move from an undercut to a poor hold on a volume the hardest, as I decided to slap and move faster, rather than do an easier step up that would have taken more out of me. I climbed easily to a rest above, and not pumped I shook on the last good hold while eying up the final sequence. I tried a cross through that felt hard, so reversed it and went to the further hold with the other hand. Match on the volume then a long move to a good hold. Toe hook by left hand, match, left foot high and then rock to a big sloper. The match to this was a crux that many fell on, but I found it fine and matched. Little shake then a cross over to a crimp. This is where it all went wrong. The beta from the ground was to put a foot below the roof, or maybe a high heel. I opted for neither of the two, and put a foot above the roof and jumped to the final jug. It felt easy, until my right hand popped, and unpumped I swung from the final hold. Frustrated I returned to the ground, but fortunately only one climber topped the route so I got second on that route.

I was on second to last on my final qualifier which normally would be a good thing, but the route had already been climbed by Youth A and the Juniors and they were complaining of the grease even before we were on. Fortunatly we managed to get someone to brush them, but that meant the route was easier for the first climbers in the group and the route was hideously greasy when I got on it, and I could have quite easily come off the easy slab section at the start, as others had. I made it through to the greasy rest below the crux headwall. I made it over the roof and a high heel made the move to a large volume easy and sitting on the heel gave me a restbite from the climbing, I couldn’t quite reach on sequence, so touched the base of the hold for a few seconds to gain the points. I returned to the lower hold and went for a long cross over, which I stuck and matched. Now very pumped I missed a crucial feature and went for the final hold, where I fell with my fingers over the edge. I qualified for the final in 2^nd place.

Qualifier 2!

Isolation was reasonably short but extremely loud, and I was glad to be out when I was called. I was warm and feeling strong but the wait in the final waiting area was long due to a backlog, so I had to stay warm with pull ups on a beam. I was eventually called and read the route quickly, and pulled on confidently. It felt easy to a jug before a roof, and as I wasn’t very pumped I rested for a very short time here. The new rules implemented this year mean that ties in the final are not decided on countback to the qualification, but on time taken to reach the highest point. I disagree massively with this rule, partly as it makes the qualification pointless but also because someone who tops all 3 routes can be beaten by someone who qualifies in 6^th but gets up an easy final 1 second quicker. We have been training to climb quicker for months, and this paid off this climb. I moved from the rest and used a sketchy toe hook to move through the crux roof. I wasn’t too pumped and a final off balance move around the roof was it for me. I very nearly held the hold but my fingers uncurled and I was off. When I got down the judges were talking and I was told I had missed the final clip. I was horrified, but my score still stood as the hold I had moved off was possible to clip off. I was frustrated because I’d missed the clip, but also because I hadn’t topped what was a reasonably easy final. Either way, I got to the joint highest place on the route, but my speed training had paid off, and I got to my high point in almost 2 minutes quicker than Pete.

I had finally won, all the training had paid off and I was selected for the European Championships. Not a bad few weeks really, and Imst this weekend!                                                                                

British Bouldering Championships 2012

This weekend I took the long trip up to Sheffield to compete in the British Bouldering Championships. I went up on the Saturday to check out the wall and it looked sick, not too steep but technical, and the senior problems looked awesome! 

I came back on the Sunday to a very muddy Graves Park, with the section below the warm up wall being a muddy puddle! The problems looked good, and as I was in the second qualifying group I watched the first group to get a bit of beta on the problems. They all looked doable to reasonable and after warming up our group were called and I got straight in, being the first to climb. I got on the second easiest problem to warm up, and got up it easily. The second problem I went on was one of the hardest, and getting on it so soon could have been a mistake on my part, falling off 3 times in reasonably quick succession. I was frustrated, so forced myself to rest, but again I got on a grey problem and fell on my first attempt, despite it being a reasonably easy. This attempt was the difference between making the podium and not in this competition, and although I dispatched it easily on my next attempt, the frustration was there so I moved on to some easier problems to boost my confidence and bank some points.

My second go at problem 6

I got up the rest quite easily (apart from a shaky top on a black press problem) and was drawing with Pete for 3^rd place, but he had all 3 attempts on the final problem that I also had goes left on. Despite him coming off low down on his first 2 goes, he just stuck the bonus on his final attempt and that pushed my back a place to 4^th. I had a final attempt, in which I very nearly topped it, but greasy hands and a small sequence error kept me off the finishing hold. Very close, but extremely far.

Overall I placed 11^th (Against Youth A, B and C) and in Youth B I got 4^th.

Doesn’t matter, bouldering isn’t real climbing anyway… ;)

CEUSE next week!!! :D