A lot of catching up to do

It’s been a great few months for me and my climbing, with new personal bests and excellent competition results. Just recently, around 2 weeks ago, we had a GB team training day at Westway in London. The day took the form of 3 routes, interlinked at half height, meaning we had 9 routes to attempt and get pumped on! The day was similar to the Northern training day at Kendal, but the routes harder and pumpier on the steep Westway competition wall. Compared to my clean sheet of tops at Kendal, Westway proved hard for me, and a combination of onsight mistakes, foot slips and pump kept my total as low as 6/9, not the best result but great training for the Ratho EYC the following week.

Last week, I competed in the first EYC of the year in Edinburgh. No matter how often I go there the venue looks incredible, but the weather is normally drab at best! This year was different, and the sun meant a new first for Ratho; no down jacket all weekend!

Competition wise, I’m disappointed with the result! I didn’t climb badly on either route, but then I had no performance I was happy with either. The first climb tackled the most technical section of the wall, a slightly overhanging flat panel on the old comp wall, just my style, but everything just felt hard! The holds were smaller than I thought, the moves much bigger and I ended up the most pumped I’ve ever been on that angle, perhaps ever. When I went to shake out on a jug after the climb, my left hand literally couldn’t grip, and all I could do was stroke the hold in hope of grip returning for my next climb.

The first route

Pictures by Sandy Carr :)  http://tinyurl.com/myblqpm

It didn’t. The route was up the centre of the main wall, and was a long easy section of about 20 moves to a “rest” (rests in EYCs consist of a greasy sloper caked in chalk), before a hard section over a bulge to long moves on good holds in the roof. I felt fine through the easy section, milked the rest and went for it through the bulge. I felt strong, the moves felt fine, but suddenly, on an undercut and a crimp, pump returned instantly and viciously. My grip was gone; I couldn’t even make the plus point.

I ended up 21^st. This equals my worst result ever, and without making any major mistakes. It was my first competition in a new category, with harder routes and better climbers, and it’s clear to me after the weekend that I need to be doing more. I need to do that extra circuit, take risks and suffer a bit if I’m to get to where I want to be. It’s going to be painful, but the rewards will be worth it. Hell, I may even enjoy it!!

I’ve also spent a fair bit of time out on the rock recently, taking momentum from my spring trips and making use of the drier weather. In bouldering, I have been continuing work on my project, Jungle VIP (font 8A). This incredible granite roof line, put up by my coach Mikey Cleverdon, is just 10 minutes from my house, making it the perfect project. I made a breakthrough recently, doing the move and the problem, but a small dab on the pad as I swung made, for me, the ascent invalid and I didn’t take the tick. I know the dab did not make a difference to my holding the move, but to spend this long on a project it would be frustrating for me to not be entirely happy with the final ascent. It also gives me an excuse to carry on climbing on this perfect move, so I can’t complain too much!

So Close! 

In sport, I have also made significant leaps; my project at Anstey’s Cove, the classic Tuppence, recently succumbed to my continued attempts! The powerful and short 8b on Ferocity wall, which I have been working for a few months now, should be my antistyle, but the draw of the steep limestone within relatively easy reach was too much! The climb is amazing, straight up the centre of the wall, every move hard. I fell off every move while working it, and most quite a lot more than that. After getting close a few days earlier, only being thwarted by a foot slip, I was ready to do the climb. A couple of false starts later, coming off at the 3^rd move, I was up and past the crux, and setting up for the final hard moves. They are all powerful and dynamic, and after the bendy, crimpy, madness of the crux it is all so easy to come off. The last move is a killer, but I just caught it, throwing a thumb on to keep- me on the wall. I’d done it! My first UK 8b, and my first one solid at the grade.

I’ve had a couple of other competitions since my last post. I managed to win the Leading Ladder final in Kendal, where I was the only one to top the 8a+ final route. I have also had the second round of the Junior British Bouldering Championship in Glasgow, where after jumping off before the top of an easy problem in qualification, I got through to the final in second place. The finals were hard, and I was suffering from flash pump on the first 2 climbs, topping neither. Fortunately the final problem was a slab, and I topped out, bringing me to second behind an extremely strong Dom Burns, European bouldering champion and monster. I am now in second in the ranking overall, with the result between me and Dom most likely deciding the winner!

SYBCs, the last qualification problem

Finally, some really great news! After much discussion, I would like to announce my first real sponsor, Paul Allen Wealth Management, a tremendously successful local business dealing in the financial industry, specialising in the areas of Investment, Retirement provision and Inheritance Tax Planning. This is a big step in my climbing, and has been one of my goals for a while now, so to achieve this and with such a great firm is fantastic. I look forward to working with them!

Only two weeks to go now until exams are over, and the Europe road trip begins! Tres Pons, Terradettes, Oliana, Rodellar, Tarn, Ceuse, Loup, Grenoble, Innsbruck, Imst and Font all on the ticklist……. Its gunna be a good one! 

Gorges Du Loup

After 90 minutes sleep, a copious amount or Red Bull and a long journey I stood underneath the imposing, but rather wet, overhang of the Gorges Du Loup crag Deverse. After some amount of searching, we came up with the 3 dry routes at the crag, a 7c, Mecanik destruktiv komando, an 8a variation of this and a 12 move 8b to the right of these. To begin I got on the 7c, falling off the 1^st move once, then missing a jug and falling higher up. It wasn’t going well, but I managed to scrape my way up next go. I then tried the 8b, the aptly named New Power Generation. It would be fair to say this 12 move route was my anti-style, powerful, short, steep and pockety, but I set it as my goal for the crag and set about working the moves. I quickly got them but linking proved a real challenge! Great effort to Buster Martin, fellow team member, for cruising this! Tired and somewhat deflated, I headed to the house in hope of a good nights sleep.

Warming up, top ropes were oldddd!

Heading out the next day perhaps more tired than the day before, the day did not treat me well. The wet crag we visited sapped my psyche, and as with Deverse, the dry lines that were available offered no inspiration, I tried an 8a+ that I flashed to the crux, but, as I found later, this was not easily passable, as Ondra has dropped it on his onsight, not a common occurrence! With little psyche, I spent the day watching Monaco below, dreaming of what it would be like to be rich, and climbed some easy slabs in my trainers.

The next day, and the next crag was a turnaround to how I felt like I should have been climbing. We went to Mesa Verde, a less steep crag than Deverse and with some slightly more inspiring lines. That was the main thing I was disappointed about at this area. In most areas and in most crags there are at least a few lines that inspire me to climb, but I found that this wasn’t necessarily the case here. I was climbing for the wrong reasons, for the grade or because someone else had done it, not because I wanted to climb the route for the moves or the experience. I had come on the trip with the goal of an 8b, whereas I should have just been climbing.

Mesa Verde treated me well, and I was back to some sort of form. To begin the day I dropped the top of a bouldery 7c on the onsight, and thought the day might go the way of the others before it, but I did the climb next go, and after a short rest onsighted Petit Poucet, a crimpy and pumpy 7c+, my first onsight of the grade! Happy, and after beta I flashed the classic 8a of the crag, Arrowhead. This was much better climbing, and my claim to fame is that Daniel Woods dropped this on his onsight ;)

We returned to the crag the next day, and I set to work on the bouldery extension to Petit Poucet. The guides are confusing, with each topo saying different names for the same line, but we settled on L’Ogre, possibly 8b or 8a+. The climb starts up Petit, to the rest before the top, and then continues out left to a boulder problem which for me utilised a 3 finger quarter pad undercut in the roof, to be used for the crux slap around the lip. It was a real fight, and not knowing the top section well and getting there pumped almost proved fatal, but I turned the lip and slapped my way up the headwall, searching for holds as I went. The grade, I’m not entirely sure! It felt harder than Pet Cemetery, and that was last year, hopefully I’ve got a lot stronger since then! The breakdown also looks a lot harder, Pet is a 7b+ into and ok rest, then a V4/5/6/7(?) boulder problem. L’Ogre is a 7c+ into a good rest, before a long boulder problem which feels a lot harder than the one on Pet. Who knows, but it defiantly felt easier than Tuppence seems to be! I’ll plump for 8a+/8b, nice and indecisive! More experience needed I feel. I then did the 8a+ right hand start to the extension, onsighting the bottom section putting the draws in. Definitely easier but still hard! Effort again to Buster for getting these!

L'Ogre 8b? 

After a couple of successful days, it was time for a rest day, so we played a few games of tennis and visited a little fort town to pass the time.

The next day was back at Deverse, still wet and demotivating, but there were routes to be climbed so I got on! After warming up on the 7c I reworked the moves on New Power and it definitely felt doable. After a rest, I got to the last of the hardest moves, but there were still droppable moves above. This continued for a couple of goes, but I could feel my power begin to drop significantly so stopped trying it, vowing to return the following final day. Jonny White cruised this, looking super strong and composed. Ellis also put in a good effort, getting up this a few days earlier! Seems to be a good first 8b, would it be a good second? I jumped on Super Mekanik, the 8a variation to the 7c and to my surprise got it in a couple of goes! This made the day more worthwhile, an psyched to return and get up the route we headed off.

Unfortunately I didn’t get my chance to return, and due to others not wanting to visit Deverse due to the wetness we headed back to Mesa Verde. I spent the day chilling in a hammock, did another 8a extension to Petit Poucet and onsighted the last of the lower 7s, and it was time to go.

A successful, if not the most inspiring, trip. My first major comp of the year is the first EYC in Ratho in June. After this year’s assessment day, I have been selected for all competitions this year, including the European Championships in Austria and the World Championships in Canada this summer. Really excited for the year ahead and all the comps! As it's my GCSE exam year, we're planning to do a roadtrip across Northern Spain and France, before finishing in Austria for the European championships. Safe to say I'm excited! 

The Rain in Spain

This half term I took the journey to El Chorro in the Andalucía province of Spain, to climb in the famous gorge and surrounding area. Armed with a bulging tick list and overflowing psyche we arrived at the villa to dusty ground and high suns. The crags lie between the many orange and lemon plantations of the area, and with such scenery and the rock we’d seen on our journey I was ready to get out on rock again!

On the first day we climbed at Poema de Roca at the Frontales sector, a massive scoop out of the side of a towering limestone cliff. The steep climbing features mixed climbing on steep tufas, juggy pockets and vertical crimps, and the mix of style suited me well for a first day back on rock. I blindly jumped on what I can only assume is the one jamming crack in Spain, reaching the top of the 6b+ confused.

The next route I got on was a classic steep 7b that had been recommended to me, La villa strangiato. A shallow slab lead to 4 hard moves and then fun juggy climbing on undercuts to the chain in the middle of the roof. Great fun! There was more of this style to follow as I jumped on the again classic roof climb adjacent to it. Eye of the Storm, 7c is described as “Disorientating climbing” and it certainly lived up to its reputation. The climb takes a juggy line through a roof groove, and the many twists and turns in the roof gave great moves! I reached the top, pumped and psyched and happy to be back at my previous level of last years trip to Ceuse within the first day. Great effort to Billy, who fell off the last move on his first go, and di it second go!  I jumped on a pumpy 7b+ and climbed a classic 7a afterwards to end the day. A great first day!

The next day and we drove to the classic crag of Desplomilandia outside of the town, and I was keen to onsight some of the classics at El Triangulo. After warming up on a 6c+ the dirtiest, sharpest 7a I’ve climbed, I rested and wanted to try one of the 2 8as of the crag. With no expectation I set off up the route, putting the clips in as I went. With a massive effort, power screams and probably a bit of luck with beta, I was at a small undercut only moves away from the crack above. I reached out left to a small crimp, went over the top to a pinch, then moved out to a good sidepull. Then disaster, my right foot opposing the sidepull popped and I peeled off! Frustrated about the result but happy with my effort it was to my despair I found the next hold was a sinker jug, and the next, and the next, all the way to the chains! Cursing myself, I lowered to the ground, rested and set off again. My foot stuck, my hand hit the jug, I shook out and climbed the route to the chains, my first 8a in almost a year and very nearly my first 8a onsight!

I climbed a hard 7b while waiting to try my main goal for the day, a flash attempt on the classic 8a of the crag, Mar de Ortegas. The central line takes in the tallest section of the wall and a mixture of tufas and small pockets. I collected the beta I could and while Mark abbed off the top to get pictures of the climb I gave it a go. The first section climbed really nicely and I reached the easier upper section on better holds relatively fresh. The climbing was amazing and before I knew it I was clipping into the chains of my first 8a flash! A great feeling and it put me in the mood for more hard climbing on the trip. Then the rain came………………………..

The dry weather we had experienced on the first days was gone and from Monday night it rained continuously for the next day and night. Thought of climbing were abandoned and we spent the day watching climbing films to get psyched for when (we hoped) the rain would stop!

The next day and the rain had stopped, and despite the condition of some of the crags we took the absolutely massive walk to the star crag of the area, Makinodromo. We could see that it was likely wet but we were too far into the walk to turn back. Sure enough, we got there and the seepage from the day’s rain was draining straight through the tufa draped wall and falling like rain to the ground below. Not a climbing day… After chilling out for a while we walked back down to the path below and took on the Kings Walkway, something I had been dreading for the whole trip. Despite having a shiny new Via Ferrata kit I had to walk using slings, always plan ahead and don’t leave it at the villa! The walk, despite my fears, was amazing, one of the best things I did on the whole trip and I was a lot more comfortable on it that I expected, and ended up doing a pullup off one of the foot rungs near the end of the route. I would thoroughly recommend doing it if you have the chance!

We actually managed to find some dry climbing right at the end of the gorge, and after finishing we climbed all the way through til dark, and I climbed and amazing vertical 7a+ and tried an amazing vertical 8a on tiny crimps with some amazing moves. Definitely something worth going back for!

On the next day we planned to return to Poema de Roca, but after doing many of the climbs there on the first day Billy and I opted for trying Amptrax, a long 6a multi-pitch route tackling the tallest section of the cliff. I was very nervous having not climbed a multi-pitch before, and after learning how to set up a stance at the first stance we climbed the amazing route. It really was a great climb and an incredible experience and we abbed off from the top happy and satisfied. We joined the others in the cave for the end of the day and I climbed a fun 7a and a pumpy 7b to end the day.

On the last day of the trip, another wet day, we were determined to climb and headed back to Desplomilandia, to another supposedly dry in the rain sector. It unsurprisingly wasn’t dry for the most part and I managed to climb a 5+ and a hard 7b in the first part of the day, and tried the 8a extension to find puddles in holds and water running down my arm. With no other dry routes to climb, I chilled for the rest day and belayed people putting in great efforts on the 7b!

Good effort to everyone on the trip, everyone climbed well and many got personal bests, thanks for making it a sick trip! J

This was an amazing trip, such great fun! I’m currently on the train for CWIF in Sheffield this weekend, hopeful for a good result! J

Cheers! 

Rocfest 2013

A few weeks ago we travelled to Manchester for the annual Rocfest bouldering competition at the Rockover bouldering wall. The wall is pretty nice, looks like a good training facility, with rings and a campus board. The qualifiers were packed, so many people and lots of the problems were long traverses that often blocked other lines, so it was difficult to get on a lot of the time. I climbed badly in the qualifiers, but with some running around with very little time left on the clock I made it through to the finals in 2^nd place.

Isolation went fine and I felt a bit stronger in the warm up, although still not as good as I’ve felt recently. The crowd was big and psyched, and the music was great. In observation all the problems looked good and all pretty flashable, bar maybe the last one.

I knew the first 2 out had topped problem 1 first go, and I could hear the crowd cheering. It was me out next, and I felt surprisingly calm. I topped pretty easily, it wasn’t as hard as it looked, but I was still happy to have got the first one out of the way.

The second problem I was pretty stupid on. During observation I discounted completely a big volume at the start, and only after a go of falling off the last move did I think to ask if it was in or not. Obviously the answer was yes, a silly mistake. Something to remember for next time! Using this volume I did the first move much more easily and carried on to what I presumed was the crux dyno to the finishing hold. I set up and sprung upwards to the hold, latching it with my right hand. 2^nd go, better. After the first qualifier topped 3^rd go, this put me in 1^st place going into the final problem.

This one was much harder, especially the crux slap to a small crimp off of a big sloper. I felt very close to this move, but after 30 qualifying problems and a long day, my forearms were flash pumping from the first move and my fingers were uncurling by the time I got to the move. I had failed to top, and as noone else had topped this climb it meant the final climber had to top to win. I was a stressful 4 minutes as he tried again and again. He hit the stopper move as the rest of us had and fared in the same way. His 4 minutes were up, down he came, I had won.

Nice little clip of me topping problem 2 on this!

I was pleased with how this comp ended up, especially as I wasn’t climbing at my best. My power has improved a lot over the last month or so, and I had one of my best ever bouldering sessions a week before the CWIF on Saturday! I have just returned from a very wet but amazing week in El Chorro, blog to follow soon!

Looking Back and Looking Forward

As 2012 draws to (a very wet!) close I thought I would take a look back over the year, a forward into next year.

2012 was my first year in the GB team, and my first year of international competition, and was certainly an eye opener. It didn’t start too well with a poor performance at the team assessment day in March meaning I wasn’t selected for some of the first EYCs but I was psyched for the first one at Ratho and eager to show what I was capable of!

I finished 11^th, missing out on the final by one place and just a plus point. Frustrating and pleasing at the same time, and because of my poor performance at the assessment day I would have to wait until Imst in August to try and improve. This was of course a setback, but that, along with my abysmal climbing at the assessment day I believe pushed me on in my training in general, and helped me to climb how I did in future competitions.

I spent the next two months alternating between the Barn and High Sports working on my endurance. Lap after lap on the 16 metre wall at High Sports, and lap after lap on the 45 degree board at the Barn! I do like being pumped……..

At the beginning of the summer holidays I went to Ceuse for 10 days, about the best crag in the world and an ideal training venue. The horrendous walk in and the long routes were perfect for building up my endurance. I had a great time there, and it was nice to be at a crag with so many great climbers. Inspiring stuff and I managed my hardest onsight of 7c+ there as well. We came straight back to Ratho for the Youth Open. The training and Ceuse had paid off, I won. My first win at National level and it felt good! It also meant I was selected for the European championships in France in November and I travelled to Imst the following weekend feeling confident.

Imst was my second EYC and I was keen to improve on my 11^th place at Ratho. The first qualifier went well finishing in joint 4^th so I just needed a good climb on the second qualifier to be in the final. It didn’t go well and I was 7^th when I fell with lots of good climbers still to go. A stressful wait began which I did not enjoy and I ended up 16^th on the route, but in the end just enough to make the final. I was great to have made the final but the stress and worry meant I hadn’t warmed down properly and drunk anything so, despite and good meal and an early bed, I didn’t feel quite as good as I could have the next day. This showed in the final, getting pumped early and then missing a hold meant I didn’t improve on my qualifying position and remained tenth. A big lesson for the future, but an improvement on Ratho, but could still do better……………

Next comp was the BLCC’s at Ratho., I went there planning to win, but I’m still making small errors that are costly. I finished a disappointing 5^th, but it was enough for selection for the final EYC at Kranj at the end of November.

The next big competition was the first ever European Championships held in Gemozac in France. My dad and I will always remember this weekend as it was very emotional for both of us. As we were travelling out we heard that my Grandpa had died suddenly in Spain which was a shock, but in a strange way relieved the pressure on me and despite the circumstances I felt relaxed when I came out to climb. They were running the routes simultaneously  so I climbed my hardest route first and was moving well until my foot popped, but I had finished tenth on the route so knew that a top on the second route would be enough. The route went well and I felt solid the whole way, clipping the chains to lots of noise from the GB support and was in the final in 8^th place. This time I warmed down properly, drank plenty of fluids and had a big bowl of pasta before an early night and woke up feeling fresh and ready!

The final looked like it suited me and the 6 minutes observation was spent reading and refining the sequence. The route started well and I moved through the opening sequences easily. Then it went wrong. I didn’t clip from where I should have and moved to a point where it was difficult to clip from. Despite numerous attempts, I just couldn’t get the clip in and eventually resorted to lifting the clip with my foot, which I knew wasn’t allowed, and was called off the route. I was bitterly disappointed as, yet again, a mistake had cost me. I felt sure I could have gone on but in the end I finished 7^th.

The last EYC of the year was at Kranj in Slovenia and I really wanted to finish on a high. My Dad surprised me by turning up at the hotel on Friday, and as it was his birthday on the Saturday I was keen for a good result. Alas, it wasn’t to be. Yet again small errors cost me and I finished in my worst position of the year in 21^st

The aim for next year is less mistakes…………………

Other highlights of the Year included climbing The Cider Soak, 8a and then Pet Cemetery, 8a+ both before my 15 birthday, and Raindogs 8a at Malham and winning the seniors at the Irish Lead Climbing Championships.

Next year has, in effect already begun, with the December Youth Open, at Awesome walls Liverpool, and the first round of the BBC’s held the next day and the Climbing Hanger. These events form part of the GB team selection for next year and everyone move up to next years categories. I was moving up to Youth A, where I would join Buster Martin, Luke Dawson, and Conner Byrne and was keen and make my mark in another very strong category. The qualifiers went well, and I topped the first route, and finished 2^nd on route two, falling from a horrible slopey volume. This meant I went into the final in 2^nd behind Buster.

The final was steep and long, but I climbed badly in the lower half, my feet weren’t working for me and I cut loose twice before the crux traverse. I was pumped. A good heel I could sit on a bit gave me a lot back, and the traverse was really enjoyable. Then the crux. As in Kranj, I ignored the beta I had scoped from the ground, opting for what felt right. Wrong again. The heel did not allow me enough reach, and my pumped arms gave up as I tried to turn my foot for my original beta. Off backwards! Buster went on to top the route, one of the best efforts I’ve seen, and the first power screams of his I’ve heard! I ended up 2^nd, and I’m reasonably happy with that for my first competition in Youth A, here’s to a good next year!

The next day was the first round of the 2013 BBC’s. The format had been changed and it is now over a number of rounds, a nice addition, although they could have not had 2 of the rounds in Scotland, worse than lead! I went to the wall happy with the weekend, and I was extremely relaxed during the qualifiers. I was very surprised by how I did in the qualifiers, and when I was doing problems the strong guys were falling on I was stunned! I ended up qualifying in 2^nd, how I have no idea!!

The finals looked good but hard. The first was an amazing slab, which I knew no one before me had even done the first move, something that frustrated me about the final. It was not full isolation and we could speak to each other when we returned, on this occasion it helped me as it took all pressure off, but a format as in world cups would work better, or as with the BBCs last year. I spent around 7 goes sorting out the first move, but then with 40 seconds on the clock did the move with a weird press. I had no chalk so had to move quickly, a thin film of sweat building as I rested. I got to the bonus, slipping off but managed to hold it and move to the undercut before the finishing hold. The foot was hard to see and as I moved across to put it on the hold I missed, slid down and was off! Frustrating but as only one other had reached the bonus it put me in a strong position.

Then the problems got really hard. One person, Hamish Pokotar, a Briston TCA wad, topped it, but the rest of us were stopped just above the bonus. Again on the 3^rd problem, it was very hard and none of us could top. I ended up being 2^nd, after getting all the bonuses and behind Hamish by that one top. Not bad considering bouldering isn’t my main discipline!

I ended up selected for the GB Lead and bouldering teams for 2013, a great result for my first competitions in Youth A!  Next year is going to be a good year……..

Happy Climbing,

Alex

European Championships

Last weekend was a competition that was significant for me not only in my performance but also in my emotions. On Wednesday night, the eve of our travelling to France, I was told my granddad had died suddenly walking in the Spanish mountains. It was a real shock for me, we were close and the news hit me hard, but I knew exactly what I was climbing for.

The Bordeaux region at this time of year is just like England, very wet! I tried to stay hydrated through Friday, as in previous Europeans I’ve always struggled with fluids and it seemed to pay off. I woke up late Saturday morning feeling light and strong and had a leisurely breakfast of bread and cheese. As we were climbing in the afternoon, we went to the wall slightly early to watch the Youth As and Juniors, as well as scope out the warming up area and any routes that were potentially ours.

As we predicted, we had the same routes as the Junior girls. I was on last for the first route, but because the routes were run simultaneously and I was around halfway through on route 2 I would be on that first. Route 2 was a blue route going up the longest part of the wall, a variable angle section ranging from vertical to around 20° off. It was perfect for me, and despite a rushed start from an unexpectedly low fall by the competitor before me, I was off and moving well.

The first section was reasonably steady, small holds but they were all positive, and the same for the middle. The top was thin pockets, so accuracy was key on this section. I climbed well, feet moving intuitively and not getting too pumped, and I was soon past a long go-again off a good pinch that many came off, with the help of a high foot. I swapped feet, and in my mind I was 100% sure I reached the hold just below the lip, a small pinch and was moving off that when my foot slipped off a slopey-topped slot. The video tells a different story, and despite the certainty in my mind (to the extent remembering the feeling of the hold and the dynamics of the next move), I had got to the hold before that. Still, it placed me well but I had to get high on route 1 (my route 2) to be sure of a place in the final.

Route 2 was short, around 12m, all technical and balancey on small holds. Perfect! Around 5 or 6 had topped before me and I was last on the route, bad for the friction on a route that had already been described as greasy. I set off and it felt fine, turned the lip of the steep section onto the final headwall and had a small shake on a pair of reasonable holds by the second to last clips. The end was in sight, with just one move to a sloper left to stick to be above the highpoint of anyone who hadn’t topped. I stuck it, made a move round a corner, clipped, next hold and I topped! I knew this put me in a pretty good position in terms of qualifying and i was very happy, I think my celebration showed that! I was interviewed afterwards, and to be honest I have no idea how that went, but it may have been rubbish! I was in the final in 8^th, already an improvement on previous EYCs. Now to crush in the final.

We went back to the hotel early to eat and get a good nights sleep, missing the Junior and A finals which I was quite disappointed about, the opening ceremony we stayed for was very spectacular! I was in bed early, around 10 and woke easily as 7 the next morning, feeling light and strong. This was very different to Imst, there I woke feeling stiff and tired. This, I believe, is down to my warm down after route 2 the previous day. I did a full warm down immediately after my route, whereas in Imst I delayed it a lot, even then not doing a full warm down. Warming up I felt good, though due to the small area I had I couldn’t go for a run and I’d forgotten my skipping rope! Despite this I was feeling strong, ready for anything the final could be.

We went out to observation, and had 6 minutes to view the route to determine a sequence. It looked reasonably straight forward, a powerful start into a close to vertical array of arêtes and rockovers. It looked perfect for me, and as the first climbers began I did the final stages of my warm up.

I felt ready, secure, focussed and calm when I left isolation, dropped my jacket to the ground and stepped onto the wall, no hesitation. The first moves were fine, bar a match where I expected to go to a different hold. A match on the tufa-like volume in the roof was hard, and required a big flag to stop the swing. The next section through small holds on volumes suited me well, with many heel hooks to keep the weight off my fingers.

I came to a slopey sidepull with a good heel, but instead of clipping as I should, the next hold looked positive and I moved to that instead. The hold was a small slot, worse than I expected, so I moved again to a big sloper. Looking back, this was my final chance to clip, but instead I moved off again. The move was long but I was still feeling strong and I held the small crimp ok. Again I looked at the clip and decided to move to the next hold. It was at that point I knew it was too late. I couldn’t reach the clip. I shook once, climbed down, attempted to clip but I couldn’t, I was too high! Again I went back up and put a heel on to steady myself, catching the clip with my foot as I did. I noticed this, and desperation meant I tried to guide the draw up with my foot. This is against the rules, but I was above the clip be such an amount where I couldn’t even reach the top of the draw. The foot lift was unsuccessful and that was it then, I climbed up and down twice more in vain attempts to clip before I was called off the route. The foot lift had been seen and the judges had decided it was enough to call me up on. I was scored to the hold before where I’d got to, putting me in 3^rd when I came off.

 The move to the hold I was scored to proved difficult and 2 people dropping it going for the hold, and 1 reaching the hold but not moving off, who I beat on time. This meant I was placed in 7^th overall. This was frustrating, I was reasonably fresh when I got to the next hold, and could easily have made the next move, which alone would have placed me in 6^th. Of course, in the grand scheme of things 7^th is amazing, but its just the niggling feeling that could have gone better, one day I’ll have a comp where I make no mistakes, lets hope its Kranj!

This weekend was all about my Granddad, and he would have been ecstatic with my placing, so I am too, especially give the circumstances! Wales blog next, Ireland next week for Irish champs and Kranj the week after that! PSYCHED!

BLCCs 2012

Another long journey to Edinburgh last weekend almost ended in disaster when we very nearly missed the Edinburgh stop. I’m not sure how it happened considering we were both awake but we packed up and made it off just in time!

We were in Edinburgh for the British Lead Climbing Championship, a competition that I’ve always enjoyed, as the routes are always fun and the wall is as always incredible. This year was no exception, and with the Hangar wall at its steepest our first route climbed its left arête. It looked fine until the edge of the roof, where there was a long powerful slap around the arête, to a good hold. I was up 3^rd, and with one person getting to the slap I set off. I felt fine, had a quick shake on a good hold, and then moved into the roof section. The holds were good but the slap looked long, so I put a heel underneath an undercut spike. I was slapping reasonably statically around the lip, but when I went for a tick mark on the lip there was no hold, just more wall! I was stretched out and committed by that point, and without a left hand to fall back on my heel popped and I was off!

Turned out the tick mark I slapped for was above the hold, a sequencing error! It was frustrating to fall off barely pumped, especially since new beta found only a few after me rendered the move pretty easy! I was annoyed but it was on to the next route, a slabby, balancey, horror fest, perfect!

I was on late, and by me only one had topped the route. I moved through the first section well, a small mistake with a clip but I was soon nearing the final key rockover. I love any slab route in a competition, and this was no exception, I made the rockover stick and was soon on a slopey crimp and a small but positive feature. I felt in balance and control, and made the final move stick. I clipped the chains and lowered to the ground. I was in the final, qualifying in 4^th place.

After checking the time of isolation, I headed to the café for a snack before the wait, and came down just before 2.30. I was packing up my stuff and people kept asking me if I was meant to be in isolation. Confused and worried, I jogged to the isolation area and made it in just in time! I had been told isolation closed at 3, but it had in fact closed at 2.30. I was relieved I mad it in only just in time, but this also added to the stress of the day!

My warm up was good, and I was soon walking down the tunnel to the final waiting area. I was 3^rd out, but had no idea where the others had got to, bar a slowly swinging clip at around half height. Walking out I got a cold feeling in my hands, like they were about to go numb on the route. My warm up had been good, and I pushed it out of my mind, but I was slightly distracted.

I read the route and set off. It was quite powerful, but I felt fine moving through a big pinch to a sloper and an undercut. The move looked long so I put a heel on the sloper, in the process dropping my foot off the other foothold. This put me too low on the holds, meaning only a dynamic move would allow me to reach the pinch target. I came back down, had a quick shake, as by this point I was very pumped, and tried again. The same thing happened once again. I was very pumped by this point, and had to go for the move. I went, grabbed the hold and very nearly stuck it, but I was off all the same.

Everyone else had used a low foot, but Billy and had opted for the high heel, and it spat us both off. It was irritating to come off two routes due to sequencing errors, but it was a learning curve. I will defiantly look at having multiple sequences for all crux moves, and hopefully this won’t happen again. I am also working on my power, as for the first time I was failing not because of pump, but the moves themselves. I have been working endurance almost exclusively since Imst, and while this has offered good progress, my power has been letting me down lately.

I placed 5^th overall, but despite this I was selected for the final EYC in Kranj, Slovenia. Next comp is the European Championships in Gemozac, France! The event may be being webcast, but I’ll let you know nearer the time!

Happy climbing!

Alex