A few weeks ago we travelled
to Manchester
for the annual Rocfest bouldering competition at the Rockover bouldering wall. The
wall is pretty nice, looks like a good training facility, with rings and a
campus board. The qualifiers were packed, so many people and lots of the
problems were long traverses that often blocked other lines, so it was
difficult to get on a lot of the time. I climbed badly in the qualifiers, but
with some running around with very little time left on the clock I made it
through to the finals in 2nd place.
Isolation went fine and I
felt a bit stronger in the warm up, although still not as good as I’ve felt
recently. The crowd was big and psyched, and the music was great. In
observation all the problems looked good and all pretty flashable, bar maybe
the last one.
I knew the first 2 out had
topped problem 1 first go, and I could hear the crowd cheering. It was me out
next, and I felt surprisingly calm. I topped pretty easily, it wasn’t as hard
as it looked, but I was still happy to have got the first one out of the way.
The second problem I was
pretty stupid on. During observation I discounted completely a big volume at
the start, and only after a go of falling off the last move did I think to ask
if it was in or not. Obviously the answer was yes, a silly mistake. Something
to remember for next time! Using this volume I did the first move much more
easily and carried on to what I presumed was the crux dyno to the finishing
hold. I set up and sprung upwards to the hold, latching it with my right hand.
2nd go, better. After the first qualifier topped 3rd go,
this put me in 1st place going into the final problem.
This one was much harder,
especially the crux slap to a small crimp off of a big sloper. I felt very
close to this move, but after 30 qualifying problems and a long day, my
forearms were flash pumping from the first move and my fingers were uncurling
by the time I got to the move. I had failed to top, and as noone else had
topped this climb it meant the final climber had to top to win. I was a
stressful 4 minutes as he tried again and again. He hit the stopper move as the
rest of us had and fared in the same way. His 4 minutes were up, down he came,
I had won.
Nice little clip of me topping problem 2 on this!
I was pleased with how
this comp ended up, especially as I wasn’t climbing at my best. My power has
improved a lot over the last month or so, and I had one of my best ever bouldering
sessions a week before the CWIF on Saturday! I have just returned from a very
wet but amazing week in El Chorro, blog to follow soon!
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