This half term I took the
journey to El Chorro in the Andalucía province of Spain
On the first day we
climbed at Poema de Roca at the Frontales sector, a massive scoop out of the
side of a towering limestone cliff. The steep climbing features mixed climbing
on steep tufas, juggy pockets and vertical crimps, and the mix of style suited
me well for a first day back on rock. I blindly jumped on what I can only assume
is the one jamming crack in Spain
The next route I got on
was a classic steep 7b that had been recommended to me, La villa strangiato. A shallow slab lead to 4 hard moves
and then fun juggy climbing on undercuts to the chain in the middle of the
roof. Great fun! There was more of this style to follow as I jumped on the
again classic roof climb adjacent to it. Eye of the Storm, 7c is described as
“Disorientating climbing” and it certainly lived up to its reputation. The climb
takes a juggy line through a roof groove, and the many twists and turns in the
roof gave great moves! I reached the top, pumped and psyched and happy to be
back at my previous level of last years trip to Ceuse within the first day.
Great effort to Billy, who fell off the last move on his first go, and di it
second go! I jumped on a pumpy 7b+ and
climbed a classic 7a afterwards to end the day. A great first day!
The next day and we drove
to the classic crag of Desplomilandia outside of the town, and I was keen to
onsight some of the classics at El Triangulo. After warming up on a 6c+ the
dirtiest, sharpest 7a I’ve climbed, I rested and wanted to try one of the 2 8as
of the crag. With no expectation I set off up the route, putting the clips in
as I went. With a massive effort, power screams and probably a bit of luck with
beta, I was at a small undercut only moves away from the crack above. I reached
out left to a small crimp, went over the top to a pinch, then moved out to a
good sidepull. Then disaster, my right foot opposing the sidepull popped and I
peeled off! Frustrated about the result but happy with my effort it was to my
despair I found the next hold was a sinker jug, and the next, and the next, all
the way to the chains! Cursing myself, I lowered to the ground, rested and set
off again. My foot stuck, my hand hit the jug, I shook out and climbed the
route to the chains, my first 8a in almost a year and very nearly my first 8a
onsight!
I climbed a hard 7b while
waiting to try my main goal for the day, a flash attempt on the classic 8a of
the crag, Mar de Ortegas. The
central line takes in the tallest section of the wall and a mixture of tufas
and small pockets. I collected the beta I could and while Mark abbed off the
top to get pictures of the climb I gave it a go. The first section climbed
really nicely and I reached the easier upper section on better holds relatively
fresh. The climbing was amazing and before I knew it I was clipping into the
chains of my first 8a flash! A great feeling and it put me in the mood for more
hard climbing on the trip. Then the rain came………………………..
The dry weather we had
experienced on the first days was gone and from Monday night it rained
continuously for the next day and night. Thought of climbing were abandoned and
we spent the day watching climbing films to get psyched for when (we hoped) the
rain would stop!
The next day and the rain
had stopped, and despite the condition of some of the crags we took the
absolutely massive walk to the star crag of the area, Makinodromo. We could see
that it was likely wet but we were too far into the walk to turn back. Sure
enough, we got there and the seepage from the day’s rain was draining straight
through the tufa draped wall and falling like rain to the ground below. Not a climbing
day… After chilling out for a while we walked back down to the path below and
took on the Kings Walkway, something I had been dreading for the whole trip.
Despite having a shiny new Via Ferrata kit I had to walk using slings, always
plan ahead and don’t leave it at the villa! The walk, despite my fears, was
amazing, one of the best things I did on the whole trip and I was a lot more
comfortable on it that I expected, and ended up doing a pullup off one of the
foot rungs near the end of the route. I would thoroughly recommend doing it if
you have the chance!
We actually managed to
find some dry climbing right at the end of the gorge, and after finishing we
climbed all the way through til dark, and I climbed and amazing vertical 7a+
and tried an amazing vertical 8a on tiny crimps with some amazing moves.
Definitely something worth going back for!
On the next day we planned
to return to Poema de Roca, but after doing many of the climbs there on the
first day Billy and I opted for trying Amptrax, a long 6a multi-pitch route
tackling the tallest section of the cliff. I was very nervous having not
climbed a multi-pitch before, and after learning how to set up a stance at the
first stance we climbed the amazing route. It really was a great climb and an incredible
experience and we abbed off from the top happy and satisfied. We joined the
others in the cave for the end of the day and I climbed a fun 7a and a pumpy 7b
to end the day.
On the last day of the
trip, another wet day, we were determined to climb and headed back to
Desplomilandia, to another supposedly dry in the rain sector. It unsurprisingly
wasn’t dry for the most part and I managed to climb a 5+ and a hard 7b in the
first part of the day, and tried the 8a extension to find puddles in holds and water
running down my arm. With no other dry routes to climb, I chilled for the rest
day and belayed people putting in great efforts on the 7b!
Good effort to everyone on
the trip, everyone climbed well and many got personal bests, thanks for making
it a sick trip! J
This was an amazing trip,
such great fun! I’m currently on the train for CWIF in Sheffield
this weekend, hopeful for a good result! J
Cheers!
No comments:
Post a Comment